Thursday, December 02, 2004
Back safely in Wellington. Just posted about six days' worth of narratives, including the two QualIT conference days. Enjoy reading. Maybe take it slow and only read one or two at a time! And obviously, start at the last post (towards the bottom) so you get things chronologically. It'll make more sense that way. I promise!
On the way home
2 December 2004
Posted this morning, so will just catch you up on the rest of the day. Got the K bus to Picton at the info kiosk as planned, and was happy to get on it and be, finally, on the way home. Unfortunately, even though we left at 3:15, there was a massive accident about twenty minutes from Picton, and we sat in traffic for half an hour, so there was some radio-ing back and forth, wondering if we would make the ferry in time. We ended up pulling into the ferry terminal at 5:50, cutting it close, if you ask me.
The ride to Picton wasn’t nearly as exquisite this time. Or maybe I’d gotten used to it. The mud flats were actually ocean-filled, so it must have been near high tide. I asked the driver what the large cleared areas on many of the mountains were, whether there had been a fire or if it was deforestation. He said that it had been clear cut, and then went on to explain that timber is New Zealand’s largest export. I was horrified. They cut down the native forest for timber, then plant evergreens. That would be why the evergreens I saw were always in such neat rows. Then, every ten years or so, they cut down the evergreens for timber, too. “Leaves a terrible scar on the land,” said the driver. Then they plant more evergreens and the whole thing repeats. The good part is, they’re not allowed to cut any more native forest, so they have to work with what they’ve got. The bad part is, the evergreens are not staying where they were sown, but sprouting up in other places, and they’re not native to New Zealand. I asked the driver if he thought they would eventually strangle the rest of the forest. He didn’t seem to think so, but I have heard too many horror stories about how imported plants or animals take over and become real problems for the countries in which they are newcomers and without predators or natural inhibitors.
The ferry was a different boat than on the way over, and it was surprisingly non-boatlike on the inside. I think I like the other one better, since it was easier to see out the windows. The windows on this one were very high up. I also couldn’t seem to find stairs (if there were stairs) to other decks, so I was stuck on this deck with 15 teenagers, all part of some program, and one of them had a guitar, so they were singing and talking and laughing the whole way. About half an hour out of Wellington, they and their chaperones went out on deck, and the kids lined up and did some sort of choreographed dance, which looked to me very much like that dance in Whale Rider that Koro was trying to teach the boys to do, with the slapping of chests and such. They were pretty good and everyone inside applauded when the kids came back in.
I finished up my Bryson book (again), and found that his little 8 inch woman was in a museum someplace in southeastern Australia, so not the Wellington Museum of City and Sea. I also took a brief nap, but not very comfortably since whenever I leaned to the side or to the back, my sunburn prickled and I had to move it. I intend to slather myself in aloe as soon as I get out of the shower tonight. By the way, my shoulders and arms hurt muscularly as well from the untrained effort of paddling.
Mary was waiting right at the entrance to the baggage claim when I got into Wellington and my bag was nearly first off, so I grabbed it and we headed to the car where I tried to get in the driver’s side. “Other side, girl!” Mary chided. In my head, I’m home already. We talked about my south island experience all the way home, and I told her how much better I liked her house than the B&B where I’d stayed in Nelson! I’m having blueberry pancakes again tomorrow morning. J When we got here, she brought down another bowl of fruit and some chocolates, and I had a pear and showed her my pictures of the kayak trip. She tsked maternally about my arms and neck, and we talked about my plan for tomorrow. Unfortunately, she’s going to be at a school again, so won’t be able to take me to the airport. It looks like a taxi is my best option. I’ve been finishing a cup of tea while I write this, but it’s done now. I’ll load my last few days on my keydrive, upload them to my blog through Mary’s computer, and head for bed. I will be online tomorrow morning for a bit, so I might catch some of you on then. It’ll be 3ish in the afternoon for you, Thursday. And 30 hours later, I’ll be home.
Posted this morning, so will just catch you up on the rest of the day. Got the K bus to Picton at the info kiosk as planned, and was happy to get on it and be, finally, on the way home. Unfortunately, even though we left at 3:15, there was a massive accident about twenty minutes from Picton, and we sat in traffic for half an hour, so there was some radio-ing back and forth, wondering if we would make the ferry in time. We ended up pulling into the ferry terminal at 5:50, cutting it close, if you ask me.
The ride to Picton wasn’t nearly as exquisite this time. Or maybe I’d gotten used to it. The mud flats were actually ocean-filled, so it must have been near high tide. I asked the driver what the large cleared areas on many of the mountains were, whether there had been a fire or if it was deforestation. He said that it had been clear cut, and then went on to explain that timber is New Zealand’s largest export. I was horrified. They cut down the native forest for timber, then plant evergreens. That would be why the evergreens I saw were always in such neat rows. Then, every ten years or so, they cut down the evergreens for timber, too. “Leaves a terrible scar on the land,” said the driver. Then they plant more evergreens and the whole thing repeats. The good part is, they’re not allowed to cut any more native forest, so they have to work with what they’ve got. The bad part is, the evergreens are not staying where they were sown, but sprouting up in other places, and they’re not native to New Zealand. I asked the driver if he thought they would eventually strangle the rest of the forest. He didn’t seem to think so, but I have heard too many horror stories about how imported plants or animals take over and become real problems for the countries in which they are newcomers and without predators or natural inhibitors.
The ferry was a different boat than on the way over, and it was surprisingly non-boatlike on the inside. I think I like the other one better, since it was easier to see out the windows. The windows on this one were very high up. I also couldn’t seem to find stairs (if there were stairs) to other decks, so I was stuck on this deck with 15 teenagers, all part of some program, and one of them had a guitar, so they were singing and talking and laughing the whole way. About half an hour out of Wellington, they and their chaperones went out on deck, and the kids lined up and did some sort of choreographed dance, which looked to me very much like that dance in Whale Rider that Koro was trying to teach the boys to do, with the slapping of chests and such. They were pretty good and everyone inside applauded when the kids came back in.
I finished up my Bryson book (again), and found that his little 8 inch woman was in a museum someplace in southeastern Australia, so not the Wellington Museum of City and Sea. I also took a brief nap, but not very comfortably since whenever I leaned to the side or to the back, my sunburn prickled and I had to move it. I intend to slather myself in aloe as soon as I get out of the shower tonight. By the way, my shoulders and arms hurt muscularly as well from the untrained effort of paddling.
Mary was waiting right at the entrance to the baggage claim when I got into Wellington and my bag was nearly first off, so I grabbed it and we headed to the car where I tried to get in the driver’s side. “Other side, girl!” Mary chided. In my head, I’m home already. We talked about my south island experience all the way home, and I told her how much better I liked her house than the B&B where I’d stayed in Nelson! I’m having blueberry pancakes again tomorrow morning. J When we got here, she brought down another bowl of fruit and some chocolates, and I had a pear and showed her my pictures of the kayak trip. She tsked maternally about my arms and neck, and we talked about my plan for tomorrow. Unfortunately, she’s going to be at a school again, so won’t be able to take me to the airport. It looks like a taxi is my best option. I’ve been finishing a cup of tea while I write this, but it’s done now. I’ll load my last few days on my keydrive, upload them to my blog through Mary’s computer, and head for bed. I will be online tomorrow morning for a bit, so I might catch some of you on then. It’ll be 3ish in the afternoon for you, Thursday. And 30 hours later, I’ll be home.
Abel Tasman, or a long time between sporks
1 December 2004 (with edits on 2 December, since details last night were thin!)
December. Can you believe it? I’d forgotten all today. Just realized now when I went to date this.
It’s 8 PM, the sun is shining brightly, and it’s still a gorgeous evening. However, I am dead tired, sunburnt (UGH), and about to just sit in bed and watch a movie. First, though, I’ll write up today’s adventures.
I woke up at 5:45 to my Palm Pilot alarm, still tired from last night because I had stayed up late watching Whale Rider. I absolutely HAD to see it before I went kayaking. Just in case we saw whales. I liked the movie a lot, although it veers from the book considerably in every single detail except the fact that there’s this girl and she’s the one who can communicate with whales. But to all of you, particularly those of you who have seen the movie, I now say, READ THE BOOK. Chris was right. Read the book. I have it. You can borrow it. It’s a fast read.
Got ready for the day and went out to see what the deal with breakfast was. Fruit was in the fridge, cut up and ready for me, bread for toast was on the counter. Perfect. I stuck two slices in the toaster as I paced around eating the fruit, trying to think about what else I needed to bring with me. There was some great currant or some red berry jam yesterday to have with toast, and that was there today, as well as some thick orange-yellow stuff. I thought it was honey and got very excited. Smeared it on my toast and found out it was lemon curd or something citrusy. Wasn’t what my mouth was expecting, but it was terrific, and I had it on all my toast. Made myself a cup of tea to force more liquids. If there’s one thing I’m not doing particularly well, it’s overhydrating to the extent Michael prescribed. Particularly today when I knew the bathrooms would be few and far between, and I’d be in a kayak in the middle of the sea. No use peeing in your own kayak. (Maybe in someone else’s…) When no one had appeared by 6:40, I was getting concerned. I needed to be at the bus before 7. Finally, Deb came out (I didn’t recognize her in a bathrobe and without makeup; I’d seen her for all of ten minutes two days ago when I was exhausted and ill) and said Mike was in the truck waiting. I thanked her and ran out the door. Mike and Frank (some little obnoxious dog) drove me to the bus station. I thanked them profusely.
The bus came a few minutes late, and the few of us standing there climbed on. They all had tickets, but the driver said to me, “Are you Jennifer?” and when I said that I was, he checked me off on his list. We made a few more stops to pick people up on the way to the park, and the driver did his best to tour guide us through the towns and such. He referred to those long areas of sand and muck as mud flats, with no mention of mussels, so maybe I’m just making that part up. He also pointed out where farmers were growing hops, which look slightly like grapevines, but the strings on which the vines grow are more vertical (diagonal, actually) than horizontal.
We got to our home base in Marahau around 8:40, and I checked in and paid. They had a note by my name saying “Card refused”, and I told the girl that that sort of made me nervous. But the other clerk said that she had written the note and had talked to me on the phone, so probably just took my number down wrong. Indeed, when they swiped the card through, it worked just fine. They pointed me out to go join my group, led by a young guy named Scotty. Scotty was being “assessed” today by Adam. Apparently, to lead any tour by oneself, you have to be “assessed” by a senior tour guide. Although Scotty was allowed to lead other tours, he hadn’t yet been assessed for the Tonga Island seal tour. What this meant was that we go two tour guides with the eight of us. Only two of us were traveling alone, so we paired up. Vanessa was from the UK, and although we got along well enough to not flip our kayak, I didn’t particularly like her that much.
Scotty and Adam both very much looked the part of New Zealand outdoorsy guides. If I said to you, “Imagine your guide for sea kayaking in New Zealand”, this is what you’d imagine. Both had scraggly long-ish hair, were fit, very tan, and wore jaunty hats, swim trunks, and friendly dispositions with ease. They handed out large plastic bags into which we put all of our personal belongings that were coming with us in the kayak. They also distributed waterproof camera boxes, although written all over them were the words “No guarantees”. Vanessa and I grabbed a medium sized box and put both our cameras in it. We grabbed a bag lunch, also provided. I grabbed a vegetarian one since I was pretty sure the sandwiches were going to be ham and I’d specified “no ham” over the phone the day before. We were given purple spray jackets and a life jacket and instructed to put these on for the ride in the water taxi. Geared up, we climbed onto a water taxi (basically a boat!), and a guy driving a tractor hauled us the quarter mile or so to the beach. We looked pretty ridiculous wearing life jackets while sitting on a boat being towed by a tractor, I have to say. Once at the beach, the tractor was able to drive across quite a length of sand dune to get the water taxi afloat. Scotty told us a story of another water taxi company, a start-up with only one taxi, when, in their first season of operation, the driver missed the outgoing tide by five minutes and was stranded on the sand dunes until the next tide came in. Regardless, by this point, we were off and flying along.
The water taxi delivered us, while another delivered our gear and kayaks, to a protected beach. Then, we had morning tea. Yes, we had done precisely nothing except put on life jackets and board and disembark from a water taxi, and yet already New Zealand had stopped for morning tea. Hot tea, coffee, and muffins appeared from some stash Scotty had. After tea, we were given kayak skirts and instructed in their use. These are neoprene sheets which fit tightly over the portal where you sit in the kayak. Then, there was a safety briefing which basically consisted of “here’s what to do if you tip over, which you won’t, but if you did, here’s what you’d do”, and then time for us to practice. The gist was, get yourself unattached from the kayak and come up for air. We practiced on land, by the way, not in water!! We were taught the basics of our kayaks – what the pedals were, how to release and raise the rudder, how to steer. Then, we grabbed paddles and were given some basic instruction with them, and shown two signs that our guides might make if there was a problem – one being “stop paddling”, the other being, “come to me”. With me having no preference whatsoever, Vanessa decided she’d take the back, which is the steering post. We launched ourselves, with assistance from Scotty and Adam, and we were bobbing around in the sea.
Instantly I couldn’t figure out how to paddle properly. I’d say it took me a good 15 or 20 minutes to figure out how not to exhaust myself, and exactly what angle to enter the water, and how to keep a rhythm going, and how to not bash my hands on the side of the kayak. As we got out from the beach, we got hit with some swells. We’d been told to go through waves like that head on and just keep paddling, but whenever I saw one coming, I’d get distracted by it, and stop paddling substituting nervous laughter instead, so periodically Vanessa would have to remind me to keep paddling. Slowly, we got into a rhythm, although whenever Vanessa got distracted she’d forget to steer, so we veered off course more than once. Probably due to inexperience, we were always the slow boat and everyone else was well ahead. We’d been told to stay within talking range of at least one other kayak, so they weren’t THAT far ahead, but still. Adam and Scotty were in their own one person kayaks, so one of them would always hang back with us which was nice. Of course, they’d paddle maybe three strokes and then float along just ahead of us talking to us as we pretended we were doing just fine and meanwhile were paddling madly. And when we caught up, they’d paddle another three lazy strokes and repeat the process. We paddled all morning to a protected cove called Mosquito Bay. One side was a pond that flowed into this amazing lagoon. We pulled our boats onshore and dug out our lunches. I was surprised by how wet I’d gotten. Despite the skirt, my shirt was soaking, as were my shorts, and I was glad I had my “swimming costume” (that’s swimsuit to you and me) on underneath.
Scotty cooked some local mussels for us, while some people went for a swim in the lagoon. I devoured my lunch. I hadn’t realized how hungry I was. Lunch was a mushed sandwich (I’d crushed it packing it into my kayak), pasta salad with sundried tomatos, poppy seeds, pumpkin seeds, and raw peas (I know that all sounds weird, but they were going for high energy), dried fruit (banana chips, dates, peanuts, raisins), an apple, a chocolate chip cookie, and what I’m calling an energy ball – it was about the size of a meatball and consisted of dates, wheatgerm, molasses(?), and other stuff, just rolled together into one solid, chewy mass. I ate everything except the energy ball which I saved for later. I was very surprised and pleased at how healthy things were – nothing had salt or extra sugar in it, and everything was very fresh. I don’t know what was in my sandwich. I remember there being cucumbers and sprouts, but I ate the whole thing in about five seconds. I also tried the mussels which were huge – fist sized – and very good.
With hardly a moment to relax, we were repacking our kayaks and launching again to go up to Tonga Island. We did much better after lunch in getting into the swing of paddling, but we were still last. Vanessa hypothesized that it was because we were two women, whereas every other boat had a guy in the back seat. Even before we reached the island, we saw a seal, but he was sunbathing and dead to the world. He did wave his flipper though. When we reached the island, we started seeing seals everywhere. They were noisily talking to each other. Some were in the water, most were on the rocks. The more you looked, the more seals you saw, but they mostly blended into the rocks. It was pretty cool. We took a few pictures, being careful to not drop the cameras in the ocean! Then, we headed for a beach far far away. It seemed to take ages to get there. The last 500 feet were the worst. We just didn’t seem to be getting any closer. Finally we made it to the beach and pulled our kayak up on shore. Scotty took us for a very short bushwalk, pointing out different plants and animals (including a pair of ducks which mate for life), and showing us a small waterfall and pond.
Then, it was back to the water taxi for a ride back to a tractor back to the home base where I ate my energy ball and changed into dry clothes. Day over. I know it doesn’t sound like much, but much was consumed by paddling, and the scenery was great. The water was an amazing color. When we got back on the bus to come back to Nelson (and other locales), the driver warned us not to fall too deeply asleep so we could tell him where we needed to get off. I thought he was kidding. When I woke up 45 minutes later, we were just outside Nelson, and had already made two other stops.
I got off the bus and walked the shortest distance possible to a restaurant that provided take-away. I had debated with myself about whether I really wanted dinner. I certainly didn’t want to make the effort to go get dinner. And I still had a twenty minute walk uphill to get back to the B&B. But I knew once I got here and showered, I’d be starving. I ended up getting a stirfry from a Thai place. The woman asked if I’d had a good day and I said yes, I’d been at Abel Tasman. She nodded appreciatively and said I’d sleep well tonight. Then she pointed me to a couch where I could sit while they prepared my food. She came over with a glass of water, for which I was very grateful. They were quick with my meal, and when I asked for a fork, she gave me a spork and a napkin. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen a spork, and I don’t think I’d ever eaten Thai food with one.
Unfortunately, I ended up a little sunburned. My forearms, believe it or not. I thought that was the place that didn’t burn anymore. But up to where my tee shirt was on my upper arms and my entire forearms are quite red. Also – the backs of my hands and my knuckles burned. How weird is that?! And some other bits and places where I missed with sunscreen. Everything is just starting to hurt, so I’m sure it will be excruciating by tomorrow. I’ll have to go buy some aloe stuff. All I could do tonight is put moisturizer on it.
Overall, today ranks second in “best days of Jen’s trip”. Last Wednesday’s exploration of the Gold Coast followed by too much wine still holds the top spot for this trip.
Tomorrow, I’m hoping to get a ride into Nelson by someone at any time. If I get there too early, I’ll store my bags at the place where I did e-mail yesterday, where they’ll take them for NZ$1.50. If I get into town later instead, I’ll just go right to the bus station where I’m getting the K bus at 3:15. That will put me in Picton in time for the 6 PM ferry, which is the slow boat this time, so I’ll be back in Wellington at 9 PM, and hopefully Mary will be there to pick me up. Then, I’m anticipating posting all these, hopping in the hot tub, taking a shower, and going to bed. I’m very comfortable at the B&B in Wellington. Feels better to me than here. On Friday AM, I’m going to sleep in, have breakfast, take another shower (my last for 36 hours), and generally have a leisurely morning. I need to be at the airport by noon for my 1 PM flight, although I should double check the times. Once I get to Auckland, I have a massive layover (something like 6 hours), so I think I’ll see what I can do about getting into the city, even if it’s just to stretch my legs, have lunch not at an airport, and then get a taxi back to the international terminal. Then, onto LA, then Boston. Hooray. I’m going home soon!
In the meantime, I’m sitting in bed writing this and I feel like everything’s gently rocking and swaying. I hope that goes away before long. Too much time on the water today. I was going to watch Ice Age but I don’t think I’m going to be able to stay awake for it even though it’s just 9 now.
By the way, it occurred to me that I wouldn’t have been able to do the Abel Tasman trip without my baggage. I would have needed too many things – my Tevas which can get wet, a pair of shorts, my bathing suit, my sunscreen… So I’m glad I did the crazy back and forthing in Wellington that allowed me to catch up with my suitcase.
December. Can you believe it? I’d forgotten all today. Just realized now when I went to date this.
It’s 8 PM, the sun is shining brightly, and it’s still a gorgeous evening. However, I am dead tired, sunburnt (UGH), and about to just sit in bed and watch a movie. First, though, I’ll write up today’s adventures.
I woke up at 5:45 to my Palm Pilot alarm, still tired from last night because I had stayed up late watching Whale Rider. I absolutely HAD to see it before I went kayaking. Just in case we saw whales. I liked the movie a lot, although it veers from the book considerably in every single detail except the fact that there’s this girl and she’s the one who can communicate with whales. But to all of you, particularly those of you who have seen the movie, I now say, READ THE BOOK. Chris was right. Read the book. I have it. You can borrow it. It’s a fast read.
Got ready for the day and went out to see what the deal with breakfast was. Fruit was in the fridge, cut up and ready for me, bread for toast was on the counter. Perfect. I stuck two slices in the toaster as I paced around eating the fruit, trying to think about what else I needed to bring with me. There was some great currant or some red berry jam yesterday to have with toast, and that was there today, as well as some thick orange-yellow stuff. I thought it was honey and got very excited. Smeared it on my toast and found out it was lemon curd or something citrusy. Wasn’t what my mouth was expecting, but it was terrific, and I had it on all my toast. Made myself a cup of tea to force more liquids. If there’s one thing I’m not doing particularly well, it’s overhydrating to the extent Michael prescribed. Particularly today when I knew the bathrooms would be few and far between, and I’d be in a kayak in the middle of the sea. No use peeing in your own kayak. (Maybe in someone else’s…) When no one had appeared by 6:40, I was getting concerned. I needed to be at the bus before 7. Finally, Deb came out (I didn’t recognize her in a bathrobe and without makeup; I’d seen her for all of ten minutes two days ago when I was exhausted and ill) and said Mike was in the truck waiting. I thanked her and ran out the door. Mike and Frank (some little obnoxious dog) drove me to the bus station. I thanked them profusely.
The bus came a few minutes late, and the few of us standing there climbed on. They all had tickets, but the driver said to me, “Are you Jennifer?” and when I said that I was, he checked me off on his list. We made a few more stops to pick people up on the way to the park, and the driver did his best to tour guide us through the towns and such. He referred to those long areas of sand and muck as mud flats, with no mention of mussels, so maybe I’m just making that part up. He also pointed out where farmers were growing hops, which look slightly like grapevines, but the strings on which the vines grow are more vertical (diagonal, actually) than horizontal.
We got to our home base in Marahau around 8:40, and I checked in and paid. They had a note by my name saying “Card refused”, and I told the girl that that sort of made me nervous. But the other clerk said that she had written the note and had talked to me on the phone, so probably just took my number down wrong. Indeed, when they swiped the card through, it worked just fine. They pointed me out to go join my group, led by a young guy named Scotty. Scotty was being “assessed” today by Adam. Apparently, to lead any tour by oneself, you have to be “assessed” by a senior tour guide. Although Scotty was allowed to lead other tours, he hadn’t yet been assessed for the Tonga Island seal tour. What this meant was that we go two tour guides with the eight of us. Only two of us were traveling alone, so we paired up. Vanessa was from the UK, and although we got along well enough to not flip our kayak, I didn’t particularly like her that much.
Scotty and Adam both very much looked the part of New Zealand outdoorsy guides. If I said to you, “Imagine your guide for sea kayaking in New Zealand”, this is what you’d imagine. Both had scraggly long-ish hair, were fit, very tan, and wore jaunty hats, swim trunks, and friendly dispositions with ease. They handed out large plastic bags into which we put all of our personal belongings that were coming with us in the kayak. They also distributed waterproof camera boxes, although written all over them were the words “No guarantees”. Vanessa and I grabbed a medium sized box and put both our cameras in it. We grabbed a bag lunch, also provided. I grabbed a vegetarian one since I was pretty sure the sandwiches were going to be ham and I’d specified “no ham” over the phone the day before. We were given purple spray jackets and a life jacket and instructed to put these on for the ride in the water taxi. Geared up, we climbed onto a water taxi (basically a boat!), and a guy driving a tractor hauled us the quarter mile or so to the beach. We looked pretty ridiculous wearing life jackets while sitting on a boat being towed by a tractor, I have to say. Once at the beach, the tractor was able to drive across quite a length of sand dune to get the water taxi afloat. Scotty told us a story of another water taxi company, a start-up with only one taxi, when, in their first season of operation, the driver missed the outgoing tide by five minutes and was stranded on the sand dunes until the next tide came in. Regardless, by this point, we were off and flying along.
The water taxi delivered us, while another delivered our gear and kayaks, to a protected beach. Then, we had morning tea. Yes, we had done precisely nothing except put on life jackets and board and disembark from a water taxi, and yet already New Zealand had stopped for morning tea. Hot tea, coffee, and muffins appeared from some stash Scotty had. After tea, we were given kayak skirts and instructed in their use. These are neoprene sheets which fit tightly over the portal where you sit in the kayak. Then, there was a safety briefing which basically consisted of “here’s what to do if you tip over, which you won’t, but if you did, here’s what you’d do”, and then time for us to practice. The gist was, get yourself unattached from the kayak and come up for air. We practiced on land, by the way, not in water!! We were taught the basics of our kayaks – what the pedals were, how to release and raise the rudder, how to steer. Then, we grabbed paddles and were given some basic instruction with them, and shown two signs that our guides might make if there was a problem – one being “stop paddling”, the other being, “come to me”. With me having no preference whatsoever, Vanessa decided she’d take the back, which is the steering post. We launched ourselves, with assistance from Scotty and Adam, and we were bobbing around in the sea.
Instantly I couldn’t figure out how to paddle properly. I’d say it took me a good 15 or 20 minutes to figure out how not to exhaust myself, and exactly what angle to enter the water, and how to keep a rhythm going, and how to not bash my hands on the side of the kayak. As we got out from the beach, we got hit with some swells. We’d been told to go through waves like that head on and just keep paddling, but whenever I saw one coming, I’d get distracted by it, and stop paddling substituting nervous laughter instead, so periodically Vanessa would have to remind me to keep paddling. Slowly, we got into a rhythm, although whenever Vanessa got distracted she’d forget to steer, so we veered off course more than once. Probably due to inexperience, we were always the slow boat and everyone else was well ahead. We’d been told to stay within talking range of at least one other kayak, so they weren’t THAT far ahead, but still. Adam and Scotty were in their own one person kayaks, so one of them would always hang back with us which was nice. Of course, they’d paddle maybe three strokes and then float along just ahead of us talking to us as we pretended we were doing just fine and meanwhile were paddling madly. And when we caught up, they’d paddle another three lazy strokes and repeat the process. We paddled all morning to a protected cove called Mosquito Bay. One side was a pond that flowed into this amazing lagoon. We pulled our boats onshore and dug out our lunches. I was surprised by how wet I’d gotten. Despite the skirt, my shirt was soaking, as were my shorts, and I was glad I had my “swimming costume” (that’s swimsuit to you and me) on underneath.
Scotty cooked some local mussels for us, while some people went for a swim in the lagoon. I devoured my lunch. I hadn’t realized how hungry I was. Lunch was a mushed sandwich (I’d crushed it packing it into my kayak), pasta salad with sundried tomatos, poppy seeds, pumpkin seeds, and raw peas (I know that all sounds weird, but they were going for high energy), dried fruit (banana chips, dates, peanuts, raisins), an apple, a chocolate chip cookie, and what I’m calling an energy ball – it was about the size of a meatball and consisted of dates, wheatgerm, molasses(?), and other stuff, just rolled together into one solid, chewy mass. I ate everything except the energy ball which I saved for later. I was very surprised and pleased at how healthy things were – nothing had salt or extra sugar in it, and everything was very fresh. I don’t know what was in my sandwich. I remember there being cucumbers and sprouts, but I ate the whole thing in about five seconds. I also tried the mussels which were huge – fist sized – and very good.
With hardly a moment to relax, we were repacking our kayaks and launching again to go up to Tonga Island. We did much better after lunch in getting into the swing of paddling, but we were still last. Vanessa hypothesized that it was because we were two women, whereas every other boat had a guy in the back seat. Even before we reached the island, we saw a seal, but he was sunbathing and dead to the world. He did wave his flipper though. When we reached the island, we started seeing seals everywhere. They were noisily talking to each other. Some were in the water, most were on the rocks. The more you looked, the more seals you saw, but they mostly blended into the rocks. It was pretty cool. We took a few pictures, being careful to not drop the cameras in the ocean! Then, we headed for a beach far far away. It seemed to take ages to get there. The last 500 feet were the worst. We just didn’t seem to be getting any closer. Finally we made it to the beach and pulled our kayak up on shore. Scotty took us for a very short bushwalk, pointing out different plants and animals (including a pair of ducks which mate for life), and showing us a small waterfall and pond.
Then, it was back to the water taxi for a ride back to a tractor back to the home base where I ate my energy ball and changed into dry clothes. Day over. I know it doesn’t sound like much, but much was consumed by paddling, and the scenery was great. The water was an amazing color. When we got back on the bus to come back to Nelson (and other locales), the driver warned us not to fall too deeply asleep so we could tell him where we needed to get off. I thought he was kidding. When I woke up 45 minutes later, we were just outside Nelson, and had already made two other stops.
I got off the bus and walked the shortest distance possible to a restaurant that provided take-away. I had debated with myself about whether I really wanted dinner. I certainly didn’t want to make the effort to go get dinner. And I still had a twenty minute walk uphill to get back to the B&B. But I knew once I got here and showered, I’d be starving. I ended up getting a stirfry from a Thai place. The woman asked if I’d had a good day and I said yes, I’d been at Abel Tasman. She nodded appreciatively and said I’d sleep well tonight. Then she pointed me to a couch where I could sit while they prepared my food. She came over with a glass of water, for which I was very grateful. They were quick with my meal, and when I asked for a fork, she gave me a spork and a napkin. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen a spork, and I don’t think I’d ever eaten Thai food with one.
Unfortunately, I ended up a little sunburned. My forearms, believe it or not. I thought that was the place that didn’t burn anymore. But up to where my tee shirt was on my upper arms and my entire forearms are quite red. Also – the backs of my hands and my knuckles burned. How weird is that?! And some other bits and places where I missed with sunscreen. Everything is just starting to hurt, so I’m sure it will be excruciating by tomorrow. I’ll have to go buy some aloe stuff. All I could do tonight is put moisturizer on it.
Overall, today ranks second in “best days of Jen’s trip”. Last Wednesday’s exploration of the Gold Coast followed by too much wine still holds the top spot for this trip.
Tomorrow, I’m hoping to get a ride into Nelson by someone at any time. If I get there too early, I’ll store my bags at the place where I did e-mail yesterday, where they’ll take them for NZ$1.50. If I get into town later instead, I’ll just go right to the bus station where I’m getting the K bus at 3:15. That will put me in Picton in time for the 6 PM ferry, which is the slow boat this time, so I’ll be back in Wellington at 9 PM, and hopefully Mary will be there to pick me up. Then, I’m anticipating posting all these, hopping in the hot tub, taking a shower, and going to bed. I’m very comfortable at the B&B in Wellington. Feels better to me than here. On Friday AM, I’m going to sleep in, have breakfast, take another shower (my last for 36 hours), and generally have a leisurely morning. I need to be at the airport by noon for my 1 PM flight, although I should double check the times. Once I get to Auckland, I have a massive layover (something like 6 hours), so I think I’ll see what I can do about getting into the city, even if it’s just to stretch my legs, have lunch not at an airport, and then get a taxi back to the international terminal. Then, onto LA, then Boston. Hooray. I’m going home soon!
In the meantime, I’m sitting in bed writing this and I feel like everything’s gently rocking and swaying. I hope that goes away before long. Too much time on the water today. I was going to watch Ice Age but I don’t think I’m going to be able to stay awake for it even though it’s just 9 now.
By the way, it occurred to me that I wouldn’t have been able to do the Abel Tasman trip without my baggage. I would have needed too many things – my Tevas which can get wet, a pair of shorts, my bathing suit, my sunscreen… So I’m glad I did the crazy back and forthing in Wellington that allowed me to catch up with my suitcase.
Nelson
30 November 2004 (actually being written on the 30 November 2004!)
I woke up this morning still coughing a little, but not as much as yesterday. Still coughing up stuff, though. I dosed myself with all my drugs, then went out to have breakfast. I found it all laid out for me in front of a window overlooking the city. It was a pretty view, but I was by myself. How is it that the last B&B I stay in on all my trips always leaves me completely alone? The same thing happened last time I was in Australia and in Brisbane last. It’s not that the B&B isn’t nice; it is! But I stay in B&Bs because I want interaction with people! Regardless, this morning, I grabbed my travel books and started leafing through them. I absolutely had to plan my Abel Tasman-ing and it became obvious that I wasn’t going to get any help with that from Debbie (innkeeper) since she wasn’t around. I was rather annoyed about that. I was hoping that she would have asked me last night what I wanted to do while I was here, to help me plan it. I guess I got spoiled in Cairns last time when the innkeeper there went ahead and booked all my tours. So first up on the docket today was to make sure I was going to Abel Tasman tomorrow. I worried that it might be too late to get on a kayaking trip, since I recall reading how you have to book in advance, confirm the day before, etc. And, although I had bookmarked Julie S.’s recommendation of which group to go with, I have no internet access here. I suppose I could have booted Firefox anyway to try to find my target from that bookmark, just so I’d know what it was called. But that was a last resort. For at least the sixth time on this trip, I used my Google Desktop Search, and found cached some documents I’d reviewed about the different options for tours from the company. At the bottom of each was the 800 number. I called at 9:30, asking if it was too late to get on a tour for tomorrow. The woman laughed. No, it was fine. It was too late for today, certainly. (All their tours leave at 8:30.) She asked which tour I wanted to take. I asked her which she recommended, the “Mad Mile” or the tour that went out to the Tonga seal colony. She said her recommendation would depend based on the tides, so she checked the tides, and then came back and said the seal tour would be her pick for tomorrow. So I booked that. When I got off the phone, I was quite pleased with myself. It’s one of those taking initiative things that I have a hard time with, but I think I do better when I’m totally by myself because then I just HAVE to do it.
The deal with the tour is that the bus will pick me up in Nelson at 7 AM. This means I have to be at the right place by 6:50 or so. Ugh. Early. And, as of this morning, I didn’t know where the right place was or how long it would take me to get there. They will drive us to Abel Tasman (90 minutes, I think), provide us all equipment, training, and guides, and off we go. Picnic lunch is included. Bus back. We arrive in Nelson around 6:30 PM. Then, probably, I go collapse.
I finished getting ready for the morning and set off to walk to Nelson, feeling pretty good, and marginally healthy. I was cautiously optimistic that I might be starting to get better. I timed the walk to see how long I’d need to set aside for tomorrow. It took me 20 minutes to get to the bus station. I went in and confirmed that this was actually the only bus station on the street (just in case). It was. They again had InterCity pamphlets, and again, I realized I didn’t have a way from Nelson to Picton on Thursday to get the ferry. I tried to book the InterCity bus, but again was told it didn’t run that day. When DOES this bus run?! They also wouldn’t or couldn’t give me any information about other bus services, and I realized I didn’t even know the name of the service I’d used on Monday. Try in the information kiosk, the woman said. I walked there and got in line. “Hi,” I said to the woman behind the desk when it was my turn, “I got to Nelson from Picton yesterday on this bus that had a little K in a circle on it…” I cringed; I was feeling ridiculous. I didn’t even know how I’d gotten here. That’s a bad sign. What if that symbol was the brand of the vehicle or something?! I hoped maybe the woman would write me off as a naïve backpacker or something, and then take pity on me and find me a way back to Picton anyway! “Yes, we call that the K bus,” said the woman, laughing. “Great!” I said, pretending I knew that all along, “How do I get it again in the other direction?!” She pulled out a book, and I selected my time – 3:15 PM, arrives in Picton at 5:15. Perfect because my ferry is at 6. I paid her and got my ticket. I was all set. Hooray! Planning. Planning is a good thing. Advance planning that much the better. What did I think I was going to do to get here and back?! What was I thinking?! How lucky I caught that bus yesterday! And good thing I thought, “Gee, how am I going to get back” today and not tomorrow when I’ll be in no state to figure that out, nor should I have to be worrying about it tomorrow when I’m trying to keep my kayak upright.
I spent the rest of the day wandering Nelson. I like it much better than Wellington. The proportion of stores I wanted to browse versus stores I wanted to skip was much better. There were tons of places to look around in, and I spent much of the day buying presents and running up my credit card bill. I stopped to look at necklaces that a woman was selling from a cart on a corner. We started chatting and the woman asked me where I was from. Boston, I said. She said I didn’t have much of an accent. I thought she meant a Boston accent so I said that was because I was raised in upstate New York. No, she said, I thought you were maybe British. (See? I’m not the only one who thinks Down Under accents are just extreme British accents!) She had meant I didn’t have much of an accent compared to her! I laughed. I think I mentioned in this travelogue previously that I had thought I was picking up Chris’ accent, but with Australian intonation. Apparently, I was right. Weird, huh?
(And a bit of a random thought; apologies if I have already said this somewhere – Chris and I had an interesting conversation at one point about how both of us felt that when we were talking to each other, it was if our brains were moving at two different levels. There was the talking part, and then there was another part that was trying to think far enough ahead to rephrase and use words the other person would understand. “It’s a wonder we understand each other at all,” Chris had joked. But she, too, said she would intentionally use words that she’d heard me use if she remembered, just so I’d understand her – for example, she was trying to remember to talk about “intersections” instead of “junctions”. Meanwhile, I was trying to remember to talk of “roundabouts” instead of “rotaries”. When “rotary” did slip out once, Chris had no idea what I was talking about. Had never heard them called that before.)
I bought a crepe from a cart on the corner for lunch, and sat on the cathedral steps enjoying the sun and fine weather and view of the city. Wandered some more, bought some more, then went to a coffee shop, ordered a chai, and spent an hour writing out what will be my last batch of postcards. I think I know too many people. I spent NZ$24 today on cards and stamps!! Then, unable to resist the pull of all the internet cafes, went into one to use the computer. That will be the last you hear from me until Thursday night when I get back to Wellington.
I thought about just going back to the B&B after the internetting, but knew I’d be hungry when I got back if I didn’t go eat something. I started to walk back, randomly chose a street, and walked along it until I found a restaurant that looked promising. Grabbed a seat – you seem to do that in all restaurants here instead of waiting to be seated. Just go sit down and they bring you a menu nearly instantly. I ordered smoked fish and potato cakes with beet coulis and green salad. It was great. The sweetness of the beets complimented the saltiness of the fish cakes. And since the cakes were hot, and the beet sauce was cold…mmm. It was very good. I browsed the magazines there for a while, and then went up to pay. That’s the other thing – your check is never brought to you. When you want to leave, you just get up and go to the register or the bar or wherever, and they know exactly who you are and what you had.
And while I’m talking about differences – Australians seem absolutely addicted to margarine. They use it on everything, often putting it on bread before putting whatever other spread they’re using be it jam, nutella, vegemite, mustard even! Thankfully, New Zealanders don’t seem to have the margarine habit. Butter is used, and with discretion. I like that a lot better. New Zealanders also seem to have “lighter” accents than Australians. I understand them more readily. Or maybe that’s just my ears adapting to my British accent…
I walked back to the B&B, getting slightly lost along the way. Getting into the city is easy – just walk toward the clock tower and cathedral. The B&B isn’t nearly so recognizable from the city! I suddenly wished I had taken a photograph at every corner on my way in this morning so if I looked at them backward, I could retrace my path. Although I had a street map of Nelson, the B&B is just off the edge of it, on a road not shown on the map. I had an idea of which corner in the mountains I thought it was, but the more I realized I had taken a wrong turn, the more disoriented I felt. I did turn around, and start walking back to town to, at worst, reorient in town and try again, but then I saw the field I’d passed this morning and cut across it to get back to where I know I’d been. So that worked and I made it back without further confusion.
I discussed my plans for tomorrow with Debbie’s daughter, explaining I would need breakfast “to go” if that were possible. A few minutes later she came back to my room saying Mike would drive me in so I didn’t have to leave quite so early. I thanked her profusely but didn’t ask the most obvious question – who’s Mike? Guess I’ll find out tomorrow.
I’m looking forward to Abel Tasman and kayaking. It’s one thing I’ve looked forward to from before I left Boston even. I hope it doesn’t disappoint! I don’t think it will. I have no idea what to expect. And I’m also aware I’m looking forward to it because it will completely consume a day. And then the day after, which is Thursday, I head back to Wellington. And the day after that is Friday. The day I go home. I told Glen over IM that next time I want to go away for three weeks, he should remind me two weeks is plenty. “Next time?” he said, “There won’t be a next time. I’m never letting you leave again!” I hope next time, he will be able to come with me.
I can’t believe I go home in three days. And that I’ve been here TWENTY days at this point. That’s an awfully long time.
(Hooray! I’ve caught up in narrations!)
I woke up this morning still coughing a little, but not as much as yesterday. Still coughing up stuff, though. I dosed myself with all my drugs, then went out to have breakfast. I found it all laid out for me in front of a window overlooking the city. It was a pretty view, but I was by myself. How is it that the last B&B I stay in on all my trips always leaves me completely alone? The same thing happened last time I was in Australia and in Brisbane last. It’s not that the B&B isn’t nice; it is! But I stay in B&Bs because I want interaction with people! Regardless, this morning, I grabbed my travel books and started leafing through them. I absolutely had to plan my Abel Tasman-ing and it became obvious that I wasn’t going to get any help with that from Debbie (innkeeper) since she wasn’t around. I was rather annoyed about that. I was hoping that she would have asked me last night what I wanted to do while I was here, to help me plan it. I guess I got spoiled in Cairns last time when the innkeeper there went ahead and booked all my tours. So first up on the docket today was to make sure I was going to Abel Tasman tomorrow. I worried that it might be too late to get on a kayaking trip, since I recall reading how you have to book in advance, confirm the day before, etc. And, although I had bookmarked Julie S.’s recommendation of which group to go with, I have no internet access here. I suppose I could have booted Firefox anyway to try to find my target from that bookmark, just so I’d know what it was called. But that was a last resort. For at least the sixth time on this trip, I used my Google Desktop Search, and found cached some documents I’d reviewed about the different options for tours from the company. At the bottom of each was the 800 number. I called at 9:30, asking if it was too late to get on a tour for tomorrow. The woman laughed. No, it was fine. It was too late for today, certainly. (All their tours leave at 8:30.) She asked which tour I wanted to take. I asked her which she recommended, the “Mad Mile” or the tour that went out to the Tonga seal colony. She said her recommendation would depend based on the tides, so she checked the tides, and then came back and said the seal tour would be her pick for tomorrow. So I booked that. When I got off the phone, I was quite pleased with myself. It’s one of those taking initiative things that I have a hard time with, but I think I do better when I’m totally by myself because then I just HAVE to do it.
The deal with the tour is that the bus will pick me up in Nelson at 7 AM. This means I have to be at the right place by 6:50 or so. Ugh. Early. And, as of this morning, I didn’t know where the right place was or how long it would take me to get there. They will drive us to Abel Tasman (90 minutes, I think), provide us all equipment, training, and guides, and off we go. Picnic lunch is included. Bus back. We arrive in Nelson around 6:30 PM. Then, probably, I go collapse.
I finished getting ready for the morning and set off to walk to Nelson, feeling pretty good, and marginally healthy. I was cautiously optimistic that I might be starting to get better. I timed the walk to see how long I’d need to set aside for tomorrow. It took me 20 minutes to get to the bus station. I went in and confirmed that this was actually the only bus station on the street (just in case). It was. They again had InterCity pamphlets, and again, I realized I didn’t have a way from Nelson to Picton on Thursday to get the ferry. I tried to book the InterCity bus, but again was told it didn’t run that day. When DOES this bus run?! They also wouldn’t or couldn’t give me any information about other bus services, and I realized I didn’t even know the name of the service I’d used on Monday. Try in the information kiosk, the woman said. I walked there and got in line. “Hi,” I said to the woman behind the desk when it was my turn, “I got to Nelson from Picton yesterday on this bus that had a little K in a circle on it…” I cringed; I was feeling ridiculous. I didn’t even know how I’d gotten here. That’s a bad sign. What if that symbol was the brand of the vehicle or something?! I hoped maybe the woman would write me off as a naïve backpacker or something, and then take pity on me and find me a way back to Picton anyway! “Yes, we call that the K bus,” said the woman, laughing. “Great!” I said, pretending I knew that all along, “How do I get it again in the other direction?!” She pulled out a book, and I selected my time – 3:15 PM, arrives in Picton at 5:15. Perfect because my ferry is at 6. I paid her and got my ticket. I was all set. Hooray! Planning. Planning is a good thing. Advance planning that much the better. What did I think I was going to do to get here and back?! What was I thinking?! How lucky I caught that bus yesterday! And good thing I thought, “Gee, how am I going to get back” today and not tomorrow when I’ll be in no state to figure that out, nor should I have to be worrying about it tomorrow when I’m trying to keep my kayak upright.
I spent the rest of the day wandering Nelson. I like it much better than Wellington. The proportion of stores I wanted to browse versus stores I wanted to skip was much better. There were tons of places to look around in, and I spent much of the day buying presents and running up my credit card bill. I stopped to look at necklaces that a woman was selling from a cart on a corner. We started chatting and the woman asked me where I was from. Boston, I said. She said I didn’t have much of an accent. I thought she meant a Boston accent so I said that was because I was raised in upstate New York. No, she said, I thought you were maybe British. (See? I’m not the only one who thinks Down Under accents are just extreme British accents!) She had meant I didn’t have much of an accent compared to her! I laughed. I think I mentioned in this travelogue previously that I had thought I was picking up Chris’ accent, but with Australian intonation. Apparently, I was right. Weird, huh?
(And a bit of a random thought; apologies if I have already said this somewhere – Chris and I had an interesting conversation at one point about how both of us felt that when we were talking to each other, it was if our brains were moving at two different levels. There was the talking part, and then there was another part that was trying to think far enough ahead to rephrase and use words the other person would understand. “It’s a wonder we understand each other at all,” Chris had joked. But she, too, said she would intentionally use words that she’d heard me use if she remembered, just so I’d understand her – for example, she was trying to remember to talk about “intersections” instead of “junctions”. Meanwhile, I was trying to remember to talk of “roundabouts” instead of “rotaries”. When “rotary” did slip out once, Chris had no idea what I was talking about. Had never heard them called that before.)
I bought a crepe from a cart on the corner for lunch, and sat on the cathedral steps enjoying the sun and fine weather and view of the city. Wandered some more, bought some more, then went to a coffee shop, ordered a chai, and spent an hour writing out what will be my last batch of postcards. I think I know too many people. I spent NZ$24 today on cards and stamps!! Then, unable to resist the pull of all the internet cafes, went into one to use the computer. That will be the last you hear from me until Thursday night when I get back to Wellington.
I thought about just going back to the B&B after the internetting, but knew I’d be hungry when I got back if I didn’t go eat something. I started to walk back, randomly chose a street, and walked along it until I found a restaurant that looked promising. Grabbed a seat – you seem to do that in all restaurants here instead of waiting to be seated. Just go sit down and they bring you a menu nearly instantly. I ordered smoked fish and potato cakes with beet coulis and green salad. It was great. The sweetness of the beets complimented the saltiness of the fish cakes. And since the cakes were hot, and the beet sauce was cold…mmm. It was very good. I browsed the magazines there for a while, and then went up to pay. That’s the other thing – your check is never brought to you. When you want to leave, you just get up and go to the register or the bar or wherever, and they know exactly who you are and what you had.
And while I’m talking about differences – Australians seem absolutely addicted to margarine. They use it on everything, often putting it on bread before putting whatever other spread they’re using be it jam, nutella, vegemite, mustard even! Thankfully, New Zealanders don’t seem to have the margarine habit. Butter is used, and with discretion. I like that a lot better. New Zealanders also seem to have “lighter” accents than Australians. I understand them more readily. Or maybe that’s just my ears adapting to my British accent…
I walked back to the B&B, getting slightly lost along the way. Getting into the city is easy – just walk toward the clock tower and cathedral. The B&B isn’t nearly so recognizable from the city! I suddenly wished I had taken a photograph at every corner on my way in this morning so if I looked at them backward, I could retrace my path. Although I had a street map of Nelson, the B&B is just off the edge of it, on a road not shown on the map. I had an idea of which corner in the mountains I thought it was, but the more I realized I had taken a wrong turn, the more disoriented I felt. I did turn around, and start walking back to town to, at worst, reorient in town and try again, but then I saw the field I’d passed this morning and cut across it to get back to where I know I’d been. So that worked and I made it back without further confusion.
I discussed my plans for tomorrow with Debbie’s daughter, explaining I would need breakfast “to go” if that were possible. A few minutes later she came back to my room saying Mike would drive me in so I didn’t have to leave quite so early. I thanked her profusely but didn’t ask the most obvious question – who’s Mike? Guess I’ll find out tomorrow.
I’m looking forward to Abel Tasman and kayaking. It’s one thing I’ve looked forward to from before I left Boston even. I hope it doesn’t disappoint! I don’t think it will. I have no idea what to expect. And I’m also aware I’m looking forward to it because it will completely consume a day. And then the day after, which is Thursday, I head back to Wellington. And the day after that is Friday. The day I go home. I told Glen over IM that next time I want to go away for three weeks, he should remind me two weeks is plenty. “Next time?” he said, “There won’t be a next time. I’m never letting you leave again!” I hope next time, he will be able to come with me.
I can’t believe I go home in three days. And that I’ve been here TWENTY days at this point. That’s an awfully long time.
(Hooray! I’ve caught up in narrations!)
Day the worst, second only to Saturday
Monday, 29 November 2004 (written 30 November 2004)
I woke up feeling pretty ill, still. Coughing a lot and just generally not improving in any way except I had a bit more of a voice. Found my socks and underwear had not dried overnight, so I moved them closer to the heater. When my underwear were sufficiently warm, I put them on and dressed, same tee shirt, same jeans, leaving my socks for later. I went up to breakfast – yogurt with strawberries, fresh squeezed orange juice, and a pot of tea. When I finished the yogurt, Mary brought out the “pancakes”. So many things are called “pancakes” here!! These were crepes with fresh blueberries and some sort of thick creamy stuff in them. Not cheese like blintzes, but it tasted good. All sort of melted in my mouth which was fine because my throat was hurting still and I was coughing up a lung every five seconds. I met Neil, Mary’s husband, and granddaughter Hannah. Mary was going to be doing something at a school all day, so I was pretty much going to be on my own dealing with baggage, ferries, etc.
After breakfast, I went downstairs and called Air New Zealand. They had my luggage; it was being “processed”. I explained my situation with the ferry and how I needed my bag ASAP to take with me to Nelson. They said to call back in a few hours for a better assessment of the situation. By the way, I said, I was told to ask about allocation and authorization of funds to me because of my not having my bag for more than 24 hours… She checked and yes, I got NZ$100; just present receipts an hour ahead of flight time at an airport. I got online and chatted with a few of you, got Michael’s medical advice on my illness, and e-mailed. Two hours later, I called Air New Zealand again. Wellington has your bag, they said. When would it be delivered? They didn’t know because they were in Auckland. I explained the problem again, and the woman gave me the Wellington baggage services number. I called it. It rang and rang and rang. I hung up and called again. It went to voicemail. I called again. A woman picked up, very annoyed. I launched through the story again, stopping to have a coughing fit. “You sound like you have a really bad cold or flu. You really should try to get better before you travel,” she said, not helpfully. At first she wouldn’t tell me whether or not my bag would be to me in time. It was 10:45 and the plane carrying it wasn’t due to arrive until 11:30, so she wouldn’t even give me confirmation that they HAD the bag. I explained the situation again, and she said yes, I’d have it by 2 PM; they’d put a rush on it. I told Neil what was going on, and he said he’d keep an eye out for it, and leave a note on the door for them to leave it, if he was out for a few minutes dropping off Isabelle (the younger granddaughter) at school. I was going into town to spend NZ$100, not to mention I had a list of supplies to get at a pharmacy after talking to Michael. He had made it sound like I was in a really bad way. When I relayed that to Glen, Glen said, “That’s because he’s taking into account that you’re not a wimp” [so wouldn’t let on the extent and severity of how I was feeling].
I walked to the bus stop; it was drizzling. I estimated I’d have about 90 minutes in town before I had to catch a bus back to grab my stuff and… catch a taxi?... back to the ferry. However, by the time the bus got into town, I had only an hour, and I wasn’t moving very fast feeling the way I was, and then I got a little lost, and it was all over. I reconciled myself to missing the bus, and just got done what I needed to get done. Bought a thermal shirt, managed to get acceptable substitutions for what Michael had suggested I take, and, even though I wasn’t hungry, I bought a sandwich, “caramel slice” – shortbread but not crumbly bottom, with a layer of caramel and topped with a layer of chocolate, and ginger beer as take-away, so I could have it later on the ferry. By the way, it is so strange to me that here (and in Australia), the equivalent of Tylenol is kept behind the pharmacy counter, even though it’s OTC, yet whenever you buy Sudafed, you have to show picture ID. Yes really. I had to show picture ID (and there are huge signs posted at the cash register saying this) to buy Sudafed. They took down my name (after scrutinizing my driver’s license for quite sometime), and then asked for my local address.
Then, I hailed a cab. I told the driver I wanted to go to Lowry Bay. We had some minor communication issues. But five minutes later, when he turned and started heading in the wrong direction, I said, “You know that’s in EASTBOURNE, right?” And it turns out he thought I’d said some other bay. He didn’t know where Lowry Bay was, but I said if he would just stay along the water, I would be able to get us there. And I did. But right before the driveway, I had another coughing attack, and he just randomly pulled into a driveway, not the right one. When I had recovered, I paid him, thanked him, and walked to the B&B.
It was 2:15, and my ferry was at 3:30, and I was supposed to be checked in (or risk losing my ticket) by 3. My bag had arrived! Thank goodness. There were all sorts of tags and labels on it, with things like “RUSH” and “URGENT” written on them. And sure enough, the bag had been to LA. I asked Neil if he recommended a particular taxi company. He said no, but offered to call me a cab. I raced around downstairs throwing all my stuff back into my bags. Since I hadn’t had my main bag, there was less stuff than usual exploded around the room, and shoving it back into bags was easy. Still, I was hardly done when the cab arrived. Neil helped me bring my bags out, and load the taxi, and, thanking him, I was off. The cabbie wanted to talk to me the whole time, but whenever I started talking, I started coughing so mostly I just let him talk at me. I popped my first dose of Sudafed in the taxi. We got to the Lynx (ferry) platform just shy of 3, and I checked in. Then I had to check my baggage. I pulled my Denali jacket out first. No way was I going to be jacketless again. It’s not all that warm here. As I handed the bag to the guy, I said, “Please don’t lose this one. I just got it back.” Then, I boarded the ferry.
I found a seat by the window, and devoured my sandwich, then more slowly the caramel slice, and ginger beer. It was a beautiful day, bright blue, sunny. As we pulled out of port, people streamed outside to take pictures. But I didn’t feel like moving. I dozed for the majority of the trip with my head against the window. Disturbingly, I was noticing that I had to cough every time I took a breath. I must have driven the guy in front of me nuts with a single cough per exhalation for an hour. I was driving me nuts but I was too tired to care. I shook myself awake for the last half hour of the ride and went outside to take a picture. The water was an amazing shade of turquoise and the south island hills were so green. As we pulled into port, I collected my things and went outside again. There was some poor planning with where they had initially let people stand and where they wanted them to stand, so we ended up all crushed together. “Could have just not let us over there to start,” I muttered to the woman next to me. “Are you Canadian?” she asked. I didn’t know how to answer that. Sometimes it’s smarter to say yes. “States,” I whispered. She nodded. She was from Canada.
We got off the ferry, and I collected my bag at the baggage claim. Then I started to look for a way to get to Nelson. I knew Nelson was two hours’ drive from Picton, so it was important I find an established way there. A cab was going to be too expensive. I stood at the InterCity bus window for a while but no one came. So I went and asked the InterIsland ferry people how I could get a ticket for the InterCity bus. They didn’t know – go ask the InterCity people. I went back to that window and saw a sign saying they were only open until 1:15 on Mondays. Fantastic. It was nearly 6 PM. At a loss, I wandered outside, then back inside. Come on Jen, I was thinking, you’ve got to do something here and quickly before your potential bus leaves! I asked a janitor walking by about the InterCity bus. The last one had already left for the day, much earlier. So that did me no good. How am I supposed to get to Nelson, I asked him. There’s a little bus outside, he pointed, has a little K on it. I ran out the door, and saw the bus – a rundown van. The driver was talking with a guy and a girl when I got there. Apparently there was only one seat left and they were two people. “I’m a single!” I said. I looked apologetically at the couple. The driver loaded my bags in separate towing unit, and I climbed on the van, wondering what I was getting myself into. After some recalculating, the driver realized there would be enough seats (because some people were not going the whole way, whereas others were getting on part of the way there) so invited the couple to get on, too. That made me feel better. We drove out of the ferry parking lot and were instantly engulfed in gorgeous country vistas. About ten minutes later, we were in Blenheim (pronounced quickly, blen-em) where a few people got off and more tried to get on. But there was one too many of us. I got a little panicky. Everyone else had booked ahead. I was the extra person… I thought maybe they’d leave me there. Instead, a larger van materialized and we transferred all the baggage and then climbed on board. Then we drove for two hours through absolutely amazing scenery – rolling hills and mountains, so very green, covered with evergreens that seem to grow in absolutely straight lines, past farms and thousands upon thousands of sheep, dotting every hill, cows, horses, deer(?!). Being that it’s late spring, there were tons of little baby lambs and foals to be seen, some still tottering around unsteadily. We went up and down over and around mountains, my ears popped a few times (not as painfully as Saturday, thankfully), and edged carefully around hairpin turns on the side of cliffs. Those of you who recall La Palma would have been having flashbacks. Except this time, double tractor trailers came barreling along the other way. And, being that they drive on the left here, we were on the outside! We passed acres of vineyards. We also occasionally passed huge flat areas that seemed to be covered with an inch or less of water. I think this must be where they farm mussels. At one point, as far as I could see in one direction was this mud flat. And hardly a trace of civilization aside from farmhouses. We would go twenty or thirty minutes without seeing any intersecting road. Even now I have the impression that there is only one road and it leads directly from Picton to Nelson.
Then, we rounded a corner, just like any other corner, and a city suddenly stretched out before us along the water. Tons of houses all crowded together. We drove into the city and stopped at the information kiosk. Welcome to Nelson. Everyone piled out, collected their bags, and started off in their own directions. I asked the driver if she could point me in the direction of Kawai Street. “Kawai Street? That’s miles away!” she said. I tried to be cheery. “That’s okay! Which way is it please?” She shook her head, “I’ll take you.” I didn’t ask if she was sure that was okay. I put my stuff back on the bus and climbed in. We drove another five minutes and she turned onto Kawai Street. I started checking numbers. We were going the wrong way. She realized this too, stopped, and said, “Well, you can get to it from here.” I looked behind us. It was a sharp hill. But what could I do? I thanked her, grabbed my stuff, and started to hike slowly up the hill. There was a beautiful sunset, but I couldn’t get to my camera easily.
I found the B&B and, panting, rang the doorbell. Debbie, the innkeeper, answered it and took me to my room. I must have looked horrible because she said, “I bet you just want to take a shower and fall asleep watching a movie or something tonight. I’ll leave you to it.” She also offered me crackers and cheese, but I declined. I should have been more hungry, but I wasn’t. I took a shower, opened my suitcase and pulled out my nightclothes for the first time in three days, and looked gratefully at the rest of my clothes lying there. I brushed my teeth, used the nasal spray Michael had recommended (yuck to that – I’d never used nasal spray before and it’s just as unpleasant as I thought it was), took half a nighttime Sudafed dose (I hate overmedicating. Hate it.), and set my alarm for the next morning. Then, I booted up my computer and started to catch up on writing about my days.
I woke up feeling pretty ill, still. Coughing a lot and just generally not improving in any way except I had a bit more of a voice. Found my socks and underwear had not dried overnight, so I moved them closer to the heater. When my underwear were sufficiently warm, I put them on and dressed, same tee shirt, same jeans, leaving my socks for later. I went up to breakfast – yogurt with strawberries, fresh squeezed orange juice, and a pot of tea. When I finished the yogurt, Mary brought out the “pancakes”. So many things are called “pancakes” here!! These were crepes with fresh blueberries and some sort of thick creamy stuff in them. Not cheese like blintzes, but it tasted good. All sort of melted in my mouth which was fine because my throat was hurting still and I was coughing up a lung every five seconds. I met Neil, Mary’s husband, and granddaughter Hannah. Mary was going to be doing something at a school all day, so I was pretty much going to be on my own dealing with baggage, ferries, etc.
After breakfast, I went downstairs and called Air New Zealand. They had my luggage; it was being “processed”. I explained my situation with the ferry and how I needed my bag ASAP to take with me to Nelson. They said to call back in a few hours for a better assessment of the situation. By the way, I said, I was told to ask about allocation and authorization of funds to me because of my not having my bag for more than 24 hours… She checked and yes, I got NZ$100; just present receipts an hour ahead of flight time at an airport. I got online and chatted with a few of you, got Michael’s medical advice on my illness, and e-mailed. Two hours later, I called Air New Zealand again. Wellington has your bag, they said. When would it be delivered? They didn’t know because they were in Auckland. I explained the problem again, and the woman gave me the Wellington baggage services number. I called it. It rang and rang and rang. I hung up and called again. It went to voicemail. I called again. A woman picked up, very annoyed. I launched through the story again, stopping to have a coughing fit. “You sound like you have a really bad cold or flu. You really should try to get better before you travel,” she said, not helpfully. At first she wouldn’t tell me whether or not my bag would be to me in time. It was 10:45 and the plane carrying it wasn’t due to arrive until 11:30, so she wouldn’t even give me confirmation that they HAD the bag. I explained the situation again, and she said yes, I’d have it by 2 PM; they’d put a rush on it. I told Neil what was going on, and he said he’d keep an eye out for it, and leave a note on the door for them to leave it, if he was out for a few minutes dropping off Isabelle (the younger granddaughter) at school. I was going into town to spend NZ$100, not to mention I had a list of supplies to get at a pharmacy after talking to Michael. He had made it sound like I was in a really bad way. When I relayed that to Glen, Glen said, “That’s because he’s taking into account that you’re not a wimp” [so wouldn’t let on the extent and severity of how I was feeling].
I walked to the bus stop; it was drizzling. I estimated I’d have about 90 minutes in town before I had to catch a bus back to grab my stuff and… catch a taxi?... back to the ferry. However, by the time the bus got into town, I had only an hour, and I wasn’t moving very fast feeling the way I was, and then I got a little lost, and it was all over. I reconciled myself to missing the bus, and just got done what I needed to get done. Bought a thermal shirt, managed to get acceptable substitutions for what Michael had suggested I take, and, even though I wasn’t hungry, I bought a sandwich, “caramel slice” – shortbread but not crumbly bottom, with a layer of caramel and topped with a layer of chocolate, and ginger beer as take-away, so I could have it later on the ferry. By the way, it is so strange to me that here (and in Australia), the equivalent of Tylenol is kept behind the pharmacy counter, even though it’s OTC, yet whenever you buy Sudafed, you have to show picture ID. Yes really. I had to show picture ID (and there are huge signs posted at the cash register saying this) to buy Sudafed. They took down my name (after scrutinizing my driver’s license for quite sometime), and then asked for my local address.
Then, I hailed a cab. I told the driver I wanted to go to Lowry Bay. We had some minor communication issues. But five minutes later, when he turned and started heading in the wrong direction, I said, “You know that’s in EASTBOURNE, right?” And it turns out he thought I’d said some other bay. He didn’t know where Lowry Bay was, but I said if he would just stay along the water, I would be able to get us there. And I did. But right before the driveway, I had another coughing attack, and he just randomly pulled into a driveway, not the right one. When I had recovered, I paid him, thanked him, and walked to the B&B.
It was 2:15, and my ferry was at 3:30, and I was supposed to be checked in (or risk losing my ticket) by 3. My bag had arrived! Thank goodness. There were all sorts of tags and labels on it, with things like “RUSH” and “URGENT” written on them. And sure enough, the bag had been to LA. I asked Neil if he recommended a particular taxi company. He said no, but offered to call me a cab. I raced around downstairs throwing all my stuff back into my bags. Since I hadn’t had my main bag, there was less stuff than usual exploded around the room, and shoving it back into bags was easy. Still, I was hardly done when the cab arrived. Neil helped me bring my bags out, and load the taxi, and, thanking him, I was off. The cabbie wanted to talk to me the whole time, but whenever I started talking, I started coughing so mostly I just let him talk at me. I popped my first dose of Sudafed in the taxi. We got to the Lynx (ferry) platform just shy of 3, and I checked in. Then I had to check my baggage. I pulled my Denali jacket out first. No way was I going to be jacketless again. It’s not all that warm here. As I handed the bag to the guy, I said, “Please don’t lose this one. I just got it back.” Then, I boarded the ferry.
I found a seat by the window, and devoured my sandwich, then more slowly the caramel slice, and ginger beer. It was a beautiful day, bright blue, sunny. As we pulled out of port, people streamed outside to take pictures. But I didn’t feel like moving. I dozed for the majority of the trip with my head against the window. Disturbingly, I was noticing that I had to cough every time I took a breath. I must have driven the guy in front of me nuts with a single cough per exhalation for an hour. I was driving me nuts but I was too tired to care. I shook myself awake for the last half hour of the ride and went outside to take a picture. The water was an amazing shade of turquoise and the south island hills were so green. As we pulled into port, I collected my things and went outside again. There was some poor planning with where they had initially let people stand and where they wanted them to stand, so we ended up all crushed together. “Could have just not let us over there to start,” I muttered to the woman next to me. “Are you Canadian?” she asked. I didn’t know how to answer that. Sometimes it’s smarter to say yes. “States,” I whispered. She nodded. She was from Canada.
We got off the ferry, and I collected my bag at the baggage claim. Then I started to look for a way to get to Nelson. I knew Nelson was two hours’ drive from Picton, so it was important I find an established way there. A cab was going to be too expensive. I stood at the InterCity bus window for a while but no one came. So I went and asked the InterIsland ferry people how I could get a ticket for the InterCity bus. They didn’t know – go ask the InterCity people. I went back to that window and saw a sign saying they were only open until 1:15 on Mondays. Fantastic. It was nearly 6 PM. At a loss, I wandered outside, then back inside. Come on Jen, I was thinking, you’ve got to do something here and quickly before your potential bus leaves! I asked a janitor walking by about the InterCity bus. The last one had already left for the day, much earlier. So that did me no good. How am I supposed to get to Nelson, I asked him. There’s a little bus outside, he pointed, has a little K on it. I ran out the door, and saw the bus – a rundown van. The driver was talking with a guy and a girl when I got there. Apparently there was only one seat left and they were two people. “I’m a single!” I said. I looked apologetically at the couple. The driver loaded my bags in separate towing unit, and I climbed on the van, wondering what I was getting myself into. After some recalculating, the driver realized there would be enough seats (because some people were not going the whole way, whereas others were getting on part of the way there) so invited the couple to get on, too. That made me feel better. We drove out of the ferry parking lot and were instantly engulfed in gorgeous country vistas. About ten minutes later, we were in Blenheim (pronounced quickly, blen-em) where a few people got off and more tried to get on. But there was one too many of us. I got a little panicky. Everyone else had booked ahead. I was the extra person… I thought maybe they’d leave me there. Instead, a larger van materialized and we transferred all the baggage and then climbed on board. Then we drove for two hours through absolutely amazing scenery – rolling hills and mountains, so very green, covered with evergreens that seem to grow in absolutely straight lines, past farms and thousands upon thousands of sheep, dotting every hill, cows, horses, deer(?!). Being that it’s late spring, there were tons of little baby lambs and foals to be seen, some still tottering around unsteadily. We went up and down over and around mountains, my ears popped a few times (not as painfully as Saturday, thankfully), and edged carefully around hairpin turns on the side of cliffs. Those of you who recall La Palma would have been having flashbacks. Except this time, double tractor trailers came barreling along the other way. And, being that they drive on the left here, we were on the outside! We passed acres of vineyards. We also occasionally passed huge flat areas that seemed to be covered with an inch or less of water. I think this must be where they farm mussels. At one point, as far as I could see in one direction was this mud flat. And hardly a trace of civilization aside from farmhouses. We would go twenty or thirty minutes without seeing any intersecting road. Even now I have the impression that there is only one road and it leads directly from Picton to Nelson.
Then, we rounded a corner, just like any other corner, and a city suddenly stretched out before us along the water. Tons of houses all crowded together. We drove into the city and stopped at the information kiosk. Welcome to Nelson. Everyone piled out, collected their bags, and started off in their own directions. I asked the driver if she could point me in the direction of Kawai Street. “Kawai Street? That’s miles away!” she said. I tried to be cheery. “That’s okay! Which way is it please?” She shook her head, “I’ll take you.” I didn’t ask if she was sure that was okay. I put my stuff back on the bus and climbed in. We drove another five minutes and she turned onto Kawai Street. I started checking numbers. We were going the wrong way. She realized this too, stopped, and said, “Well, you can get to it from here.” I looked behind us. It was a sharp hill. But what could I do? I thanked her, grabbed my stuff, and started to hike slowly up the hill. There was a beautiful sunset, but I couldn’t get to my camera easily.
I found the B&B and, panting, rang the doorbell. Debbie, the innkeeper, answered it and took me to my room. I must have looked horrible because she said, “I bet you just want to take a shower and fall asleep watching a movie or something tonight. I’ll leave you to it.” She also offered me crackers and cheese, but I declined. I should have been more hungry, but I wasn’t. I took a shower, opened my suitcase and pulled out my nightclothes for the first time in three days, and looked gratefully at the rest of my clothes lying there. I brushed my teeth, used the nasal spray Michael had recommended (yuck to that – I’d never used nasal spray before and it’s just as unpleasant as I thought it was), took half a nighttime Sudafed dose (I hate overmedicating. Hate it.), and set my alarm for the next morning. Then, I booted up my computer and started to catch up on writing about my days.
Really alone this time
Sunday, 28 November 2004 (written 29 November 2004)
I’m pretty sure this won’t get posted until Thursday at this point, but maybe in the time between then and now, I can actually catch up on the days I’ve missed, so you’ll have plenty to keep you busy while I’m living something like 36 hours in the span of nine hours time passing on Friday. That’s when you catch up from my deluge from yesterday.
So let’s start with yesterday. It’s already slipping out of my brain. I like to do these write-ups because I get to relive the days each time, and then I can always go back and read them, and it’s like I get to preserve every moment. Welcome to the VIA-ing of Jen’s mind, right?
Yesterday. Sunday. I woke up thinking it was Saturday. Had that problem all day because most of Saturday had been spent in transit, so it’s as if the day didn’t exist at all. When I went upstairs for breakfast, a goblet of yogurt with fresh apricots cut on top was waiting for me. I started in on that (after running back downstairs for a Lactaid – thankfully, I’d thought to put two capsules in my wallet so they’d managed to actually arrive in Wellington with me), and Mary came out asking what else would I want? Cereal, juice, coffee, tea, hot stuff – eggs, etc. I accepted a pot of tea and scrambled eggs. I drank a LOT of coffee in Australia and am trying to get off it again. Part of that was Chris’ fault, part was Tom’s fault, since both of them drink coffee by the gallon, and part was that we kept trying to stay awake during the workshops and conferences after staying up too late the night before! After breakfast, I got online for a bit and spoke to some of you. I called Air New Zealand about my bag and was told it had been “located” but they didn’t have it yet. The guy was very nice, though, and when he took down my temporary address, he also added a note saying not to expect someone to answer the phone for calls and just to please bring it and leave it on the front step if no one was home. “Want my guess?” he said. “It went to LA,” I said. “Yup,” he said, adding, “By the way, call tomorrow morning if you don’t have it yet because after 24 hours, you’re authorized for NZ$100 emergency expenses.” Since I only had my tee shirt and jeans, Mary offered me a thermal undershirt and a ski jacket which I eagerly accepted. Then, since she was heading into town, she gave me a lift. Eastbourne, where the B&B is, is about three quarters of the way around the bay where Wellington is, so that’s about a 15 minute drive from the city center. Wellington is a rather bustling city for being so small, and Mary assured me I’d be able to walk all the way through it if I wanted to spend the day. I wanted to start at Te Papa (literally “our place”, the national museum of New Zealand), so Mary dropped me off there.
Te Papa is in a very unique looking building right on the waterfront. Inside the front door, I found an ATM and withdrew a quantity of NZ dollars. (Unfortunately, with all the craziness of Saturday, I had not been able to spend my remaining Aussie dollars, nor make a withdrawal of NZ dollars once I got to this country, so I had been very lucky that Mary picked me up at the airport and then took me into town. Otherwise, I would have had to borrow cash from her!) Ironically, admission to the museum is free, as is admission to most museums here. I think that’s a fantastic policy, but I’m not sure how they then manage to pull off the quality and quantity of exhibits I’m about to describe to you. Te Papa is six levels, each one huge, and each with different stuff on it. Nearly every exhibit is hands-on. On one level, the Earth and natural disasters were described in detail, and, to learn about earthquakes, you went into this little house, and after a brief movie, the earthquake “struck” and the whole house shook and lurched like crazy. There was a part of a level that was devoted to nature and animal life in NZ, and there was an impressive number of skeletons, fossils, models of animals, and even a rainforest walk, in and around replicas of trees and animals. Another level of the museum was devoted to the different cultures of people who make up NZ – Chinese and Italian particularly. Another level had a huge display of Maori culture, with green stone carvings, canoes, and several displays running footage of Maoris describing their creation myths of NZ. Another section of the museum had a display on the 1970s, complete with tacky carpeting, examples of goods popular in the ‘70s, and various monitors with pieces of shows from the 1970s. Most amusing to me was a five minute Graham Kerr video on how to unstick an omelet from a pan. I found this funny because when I was in early high school, I suddenly discovered Graham Kerr on PBS television, and for at least one summer was pretty addicted to his cooking show. I had no idea he’d already been doing that for twenty years. Apparently, Kerr is NZ’s first television chef. (No, I don’t know who followed in his footsteps.) There was a small exhibit on a different floor of how nature influences art and vice versa, with photographs (some very close up) of animals or plants, and each paired up with some architectural or artistic object. The only example I can remember at the moment was a bridge which looked to me like the Golden Gate Bridge, but I don’t think it was, and next to it, they had a rendering of DNA. And they really did look similar. Another layer of the museum looked more like museums with which I’m familiar, paintings on the wall, people being told not to touch them, etc. However, on that floor, like every other floor, a children’s area existed where kids could color and do other interesting activities, generally related to the theme of the exhibits on that floor. A nice touch, I thought. Regardless, after more than two hours, I hadn’t even hit all the floors, but I was getting museum-ed out. I exited by way of the museum shop which was the best museum shop I’d ever seen. I was severely tempted to buy you all gifts on the spot, but I held back. I would have had to carry everything with me for the rest of the day.
Once out of Te Papa, I decided to just wander the city. I walked through a very sketchy indoor market, made sketchier by the fact that when I intentionally wanted to go back to it today, it was closed… I figured pretty mostly anywhere I wandered would be okay. It’s hard to lose your bearings when one side of the city is the harbor, and the other side is mountains. However, I was soon frustrated by the fact that most of the streets are straight, which means that you think you’re right by the water, and yet, at the end of the street, you’re now several blocks further from the harbor. (Does that make any sense?) If the streets curved, with the harbor, this wouldn’t be a problem. Anyway, I didn’t end up wandering in the productive part of the city until a few hours later, and visited a whole bunch of outdoor gear stores trying to find a backpack Glen was looking for. I went in and out of other places too. Didn’t find anything extraordinary.
I had a few “must do” items on my list for the day, though. ATM had been one, but I also needed to go make my ferry arrangements for getting to and from Pickton. (How I was then getting from Pickton to Nelson, I didn’t know.) I needed also to go to a pharmacy and get some more cough drops, since my stash from Brisbane was nearly gone, and I was still coughing a lot. I also thought I should get more Tylenol since I was taking Tylenol Cold one tablet at a time, twice a day, and using just a plain Tylenol for the other 500 mg of pain relief for my throat. However, they don’t have Tylenol here. Nor acetaminophen. They’ve got Panadol, which, the pharmacist assured me, was some cousin of acetaminophen called something like paracetamol. Or, if you’re not paying attention, Panadeine. Which is paracetamol with codeine. I was, however, paying attention. I got some generic paracetamol, and selected a box of Cepacol lozenges because they actually had a cough suppressant in them – hydrometholbromine or whatever it is. I recognized it as a cough suppressant. Although they do seem to suppress my cough, they taste HORRIFIC. EW YUCK, is all I can say. I actually felt sick about halfway through the first one because it was just awful. You’re supposed to take two every three hours. I’m taking one every three hours, and it’s amazing. It’s almost to the minute, even if I’m not watching the clock, I’ll start coughing like crazy right at three hours.
I walked intentionally back down to the waterfront so I could get to the ferry terminal, and went and bought my tickets. Unfortunately, the fast boat (2 hours) isn’t so fast anymore since they now have speed restrictions. It used to make the journey in 90 minutes, but environmental damage ensued. The slow boat takes 3 hours. For whatever reason, I wasn’t able to book the fast boat for my return on Thursday, and I’ll get in at 9 PM. (Mary has offered to come get me from the terminal, which is very very nice of her.)
I started to walk back toward the city, along the water, and happily ran into the Museum of City and Sea. I had heard very good, but vague things about it from my travel guide and from Mary, who said she’d never been there. Admission to it was also free. I was greeted by a friendly staffer who gave me a map, explained the three levels – level 1 is a special photographic exhibit, level 2 is about the sea, and level 3 is about the city and society. Then she asked where I was from. This is one thing I’ve noticed a lot on this trip – people ask me frequently where I’m from. More so than ever before. I’m glad they’re friendly, and I’m not offended, but half the people I end up talking to ask either where I’m from or what sort of accent I have! (The best was getting mistaken for being Canadian while on the ferry today. By a Canadian! Imagine that, eh?) The first level of the museum was alright – the special exhibit was a photography one. Up a central gorgeous dark wood staircase to the second floor. It might be about the sea, alright, but mostly it was about shipwrecks in the strait between the north and south islands. The very same strait I just bought ferry tickets to cross. At the far end of the floor was a screening room, which showed a 15 minute movie about the 1949(?) Wahine tragedy where the ship Wahine (pronounced wa-hee-nay) with 700+ people struck a reef during a storm and then sunk during a brutal storm. Their situation had gone from probably okay to tragic in 20 minutes. Even the lifeboats were capsized by 60 foot swells. The movie footage was brutal, and showed people on shore desperately trying to pull in lifeboats which were nearly being overturned in water only usually a few feet deep. 50+ people died. Suddenly, I was thinking maybe this north island/south island thing I was trying to do wasn’t such a good idea. I’m glad I had bought my tickets prior to going to the museum! As I was finishing up the second floor exhibits, a chime rang four times (it was four o’clock), and then, on the central wall of the museum behind the stairs, a film started playing, something about being on a commercial shipping voyage in the 1930s. It was fun to watch it on the wall, and people from all levels of the museum hung over the railings on their level to pay attention. I sat on the stairs. The third floor was divided into sections talking about different aspects of early life in Wellington, including education, health, sanitation, homelessness, police and crime, etc. At the far end, again, seemed to be a screening room, but one rotation of the movie had already started, so I walked in and did a double take. There was no movie screen. Instead, there was a shelf with some objects on it: a candlestick, a book, a coil of rope, some old glass bottles. And on the shelf, walking around, talking, was a perfect 8 inch tall projection(?) of a woman. She was 3D and she was interacting with the objects. When she walked behind the glass bottles, her image was distorted. When she sat on the book, she cast a shadow! It was amazing. She talked of two Maori myths, and for one, two other perfect little people appeared and acted it out while she was reciting it! After the show, only about 15 minutes, I walked right up to the shelf and looked all around it and found no projector, no mirrors, no strings, no anything. I was the only person in the room when it started again, and I was standing maybe two feet from the little woman and still couldn’t figure out how it worked. I checked my museum pamphlet. There was no mention of this anywhere. It’s like the perfectly kept awesome museum secret. Bill Bryson has a description of something similar, I now recall, but I hadn’t thought it was for Wellington, since his book is about Australia, not NZ. I’ll need to check that section again. Having examined every corner of the museum (Te Papa might have gotten away, but the Museum of City and Sea has been thoroughly inspected by me!), I exited through the museum shop, buying a bunch of postcards and stamps on the way out.
I walked along the harbor, taking pictures. I came across an interesting fountain in which two little boys were playing. As I started to frame up the shot, their father started yelling something. I thought he was yelling at the kids to get out of the picture, so I turned to him and said, “They’re okay; I’m fine with it, if you don’t mind.” “Yeah, but, they’re about to take a wee!” he said. When I looked again, the boys had dropped their pants. I have no idea if their pants were down when I went to frame the shot. I assured the parents that I hadn’t actually taken a picture, and we all had a good laugh about that one. In the meantime, the mother had gone to scoop up the boys, and I took a picture afterward.
I walked to Courtenay Place, the “end of the line” for all the buses, but more or less the city center given that it’s all the way over on the left side of Wellington (don’t know if that’s east or west). I couldn’t find a place I wanted to eat dinner that wasn’t really expensive or Indian (there was an Indian restaurant every two steps), so I kept walking until I came to one corner where a pub-type place looked to have decent stuff. I got my table for one, first time on this trip, and chose a beer (Monteith’s – same brand Chris and I drunk by the six pack in Melbourne – but this time I tried their golden lager. The pub had five varieties of Monteith’s on tap.). For dinner, I had an unexpectedly delicious meal. The description was something like “wild mushrooms with an herb pancake, tomatoes, onions, white balsamic, and cheese”, so I was anticipating something hot, probably with spaghetti type sauce. Instead, I was brought a huge plate of cold, fresh mixed greens with tomatoes and onions which had been marinated in a light balsamic sauce. On top of that was a steaming, thick, golden, curved “pancake”, which was supposedly wrapped around the large pieces of several styles of mushrooms, many of which had escaped out onto the salad. It was very good, and I ate the entire thing, suddenly realizing I hadn’t had lunch. It was 6 PM. I drank my beer slowly, and wrote postcards for the next hour, waiting for the last bus to Eastbourne which was going to arrive at 8 PM. The pub wasn’t too busy, though, and the staff didn’t seem to mind if I just stayed. Still, I had another hour to kill, so I took a long slow walk up and down Courtenay place. I managed to get on the bus in the proper direction, but it was very indirect, and by the time we got close to Eastbourne, it was nearly 9 PM. The other thing that didn’t help was that I missed my stop, since I had been a little unsure of where it was anyway. The driver took pity on me when I realized we’d passed it, and let me out on the side of the road. I walked back.
At the B&B, I worked out arrangements with Mary for this morning. She was having her two granddaughters sleep over last night, so was a bit frazzled, but very happy. We decided I’d have breakfast at 8. Blueberry pancakes. We also talked about what to do with my luggage situation, and decided that we really couldn’t do anything in the decision-making arena until the morning when I found out from Air New Zealand more details. Like where exactly the bag was, and when they thought they might have it in Wellington. I was already planning to head into town in the morning to spend my soon-to-be-authorized NZ$100 from the whole fiasco. I also wanted to stop at a bank to see if I could change my Aussie dollars to kiwi dollars.
On my way to bed, I climbed in the hot tub again and read a few more chapters in Whale Rider, which I’d purchased in Brisbane on Chris’ suggestion. Then showered, forgot to wash out my underwear and socks so did that in the sink, and climbed into bed. The book called me, so I got up and finished reading it. Good book. Now I have to see the movie, but no problem since Barb let me … um… borrow it. Coughed myself to sleep.
I’m pretty sure this won’t get posted until Thursday at this point, but maybe in the time between then and now, I can actually catch up on the days I’ve missed, so you’ll have plenty to keep you busy while I’m living something like 36 hours in the span of nine hours time passing on Friday. That’s when you catch up from my deluge from yesterday.
So let’s start with yesterday. It’s already slipping out of my brain. I like to do these write-ups because I get to relive the days each time, and then I can always go back and read them, and it’s like I get to preserve every moment. Welcome to the VIA-ing of Jen’s mind, right?
Yesterday. Sunday. I woke up thinking it was Saturday. Had that problem all day because most of Saturday had been spent in transit, so it’s as if the day didn’t exist at all. When I went upstairs for breakfast, a goblet of yogurt with fresh apricots cut on top was waiting for me. I started in on that (after running back downstairs for a Lactaid – thankfully, I’d thought to put two capsules in my wallet so they’d managed to actually arrive in Wellington with me), and Mary came out asking what else would I want? Cereal, juice, coffee, tea, hot stuff – eggs, etc. I accepted a pot of tea and scrambled eggs. I drank a LOT of coffee in Australia and am trying to get off it again. Part of that was Chris’ fault, part was Tom’s fault, since both of them drink coffee by the gallon, and part was that we kept trying to stay awake during the workshops and conferences after staying up too late the night before! After breakfast, I got online for a bit and spoke to some of you. I called Air New Zealand about my bag and was told it had been “located” but they didn’t have it yet. The guy was very nice, though, and when he took down my temporary address, he also added a note saying not to expect someone to answer the phone for calls and just to please bring it and leave it on the front step if no one was home. “Want my guess?” he said. “It went to LA,” I said. “Yup,” he said, adding, “By the way, call tomorrow morning if you don’t have it yet because after 24 hours, you’re authorized for NZ$100 emergency expenses.” Since I only had my tee shirt and jeans, Mary offered me a thermal undershirt and a ski jacket which I eagerly accepted. Then, since she was heading into town, she gave me a lift. Eastbourne, where the B&B is, is about three quarters of the way around the bay where Wellington is, so that’s about a 15 minute drive from the city center. Wellington is a rather bustling city for being so small, and Mary assured me I’d be able to walk all the way through it if I wanted to spend the day. I wanted to start at Te Papa (literally “our place”, the national museum of New Zealand), so Mary dropped me off there.
Te Papa is in a very unique looking building right on the waterfront. Inside the front door, I found an ATM and withdrew a quantity of NZ dollars. (Unfortunately, with all the craziness of Saturday, I had not been able to spend my remaining Aussie dollars, nor make a withdrawal of NZ dollars once I got to this country, so I had been very lucky that Mary picked me up at the airport and then took me into town. Otherwise, I would have had to borrow cash from her!) Ironically, admission to the museum is free, as is admission to most museums here. I think that’s a fantastic policy, but I’m not sure how they then manage to pull off the quality and quantity of exhibits I’m about to describe to you. Te Papa is six levels, each one huge, and each with different stuff on it. Nearly every exhibit is hands-on. On one level, the Earth and natural disasters were described in detail, and, to learn about earthquakes, you went into this little house, and after a brief movie, the earthquake “struck” and the whole house shook and lurched like crazy. There was a part of a level that was devoted to nature and animal life in NZ, and there was an impressive number of skeletons, fossils, models of animals, and even a rainforest walk, in and around replicas of trees and animals. Another level of the museum was devoted to the different cultures of people who make up NZ – Chinese and Italian particularly. Another level had a huge display of Maori culture, with green stone carvings, canoes, and several displays running footage of Maoris describing their creation myths of NZ. Another section of the museum had a display on the 1970s, complete with tacky carpeting, examples of goods popular in the ‘70s, and various monitors with pieces of shows from the 1970s. Most amusing to me was a five minute Graham Kerr video on how to unstick an omelet from a pan. I found this funny because when I was in early high school, I suddenly discovered Graham Kerr on PBS television, and for at least one summer was pretty addicted to his cooking show. I had no idea he’d already been doing that for twenty years. Apparently, Kerr is NZ’s first television chef. (No, I don’t know who followed in his footsteps.) There was a small exhibit on a different floor of how nature influences art and vice versa, with photographs (some very close up) of animals or plants, and each paired up with some architectural or artistic object. The only example I can remember at the moment was a bridge which looked to me like the Golden Gate Bridge, but I don’t think it was, and next to it, they had a rendering of DNA. And they really did look similar. Another layer of the museum looked more like museums with which I’m familiar, paintings on the wall, people being told not to touch them, etc. However, on that floor, like every other floor, a children’s area existed where kids could color and do other interesting activities, generally related to the theme of the exhibits on that floor. A nice touch, I thought. Regardless, after more than two hours, I hadn’t even hit all the floors, but I was getting museum-ed out. I exited by way of the museum shop which was the best museum shop I’d ever seen. I was severely tempted to buy you all gifts on the spot, but I held back. I would have had to carry everything with me for the rest of the day.
Once out of Te Papa, I decided to just wander the city. I walked through a very sketchy indoor market, made sketchier by the fact that when I intentionally wanted to go back to it today, it was closed… I figured pretty mostly anywhere I wandered would be okay. It’s hard to lose your bearings when one side of the city is the harbor, and the other side is mountains. However, I was soon frustrated by the fact that most of the streets are straight, which means that you think you’re right by the water, and yet, at the end of the street, you’re now several blocks further from the harbor. (Does that make any sense?) If the streets curved, with the harbor, this wouldn’t be a problem. Anyway, I didn’t end up wandering in the productive part of the city until a few hours later, and visited a whole bunch of outdoor gear stores trying to find a backpack Glen was looking for. I went in and out of other places too. Didn’t find anything extraordinary.
I had a few “must do” items on my list for the day, though. ATM had been one, but I also needed to go make my ferry arrangements for getting to and from Pickton. (How I was then getting from Pickton to Nelson, I didn’t know.) I needed also to go to a pharmacy and get some more cough drops, since my stash from Brisbane was nearly gone, and I was still coughing a lot. I also thought I should get more Tylenol since I was taking Tylenol Cold one tablet at a time, twice a day, and using just a plain Tylenol for the other 500 mg of pain relief for my throat. However, they don’t have Tylenol here. Nor acetaminophen. They’ve got Panadol, which, the pharmacist assured me, was some cousin of acetaminophen called something like paracetamol. Or, if you’re not paying attention, Panadeine. Which is paracetamol with codeine. I was, however, paying attention. I got some generic paracetamol, and selected a box of Cepacol lozenges because they actually had a cough suppressant in them – hydrometholbromine or whatever it is. I recognized it as a cough suppressant. Although they do seem to suppress my cough, they taste HORRIFIC. EW YUCK, is all I can say. I actually felt sick about halfway through the first one because it was just awful. You’re supposed to take two every three hours. I’m taking one every three hours, and it’s amazing. It’s almost to the minute, even if I’m not watching the clock, I’ll start coughing like crazy right at three hours.
I walked intentionally back down to the waterfront so I could get to the ferry terminal, and went and bought my tickets. Unfortunately, the fast boat (2 hours) isn’t so fast anymore since they now have speed restrictions. It used to make the journey in 90 minutes, but environmental damage ensued. The slow boat takes 3 hours. For whatever reason, I wasn’t able to book the fast boat for my return on Thursday, and I’ll get in at 9 PM. (Mary has offered to come get me from the terminal, which is very very nice of her.)
I started to walk back toward the city, along the water, and happily ran into the Museum of City and Sea. I had heard very good, but vague things about it from my travel guide and from Mary, who said she’d never been there. Admission to it was also free. I was greeted by a friendly staffer who gave me a map, explained the three levels – level 1 is a special photographic exhibit, level 2 is about the sea, and level 3 is about the city and society. Then she asked where I was from. This is one thing I’ve noticed a lot on this trip – people ask me frequently where I’m from. More so than ever before. I’m glad they’re friendly, and I’m not offended, but half the people I end up talking to ask either where I’m from or what sort of accent I have! (The best was getting mistaken for being Canadian while on the ferry today. By a Canadian! Imagine that, eh?) The first level of the museum was alright – the special exhibit was a photography one. Up a central gorgeous dark wood staircase to the second floor. It might be about the sea, alright, but mostly it was about shipwrecks in the strait between the north and south islands. The very same strait I just bought ferry tickets to cross. At the far end of the floor was a screening room, which showed a 15 minute movie about the 1949(?) Wahine tragedy where the ship Wahine (pronounced wa-hee-nay) with 700+ people struck a reef during a storm and then sunk during a brutal storm. Their situation had gone from probably okay to tragic in 20 minutes. Even the lifeboats were capsized by 60 foot swells. The movie footage was brutal, and showed people on shore desperately trying to pull in lifeboats which were nearly being overturned in water only usually a few feet deep. 50+ people died. Suddenly, I was thinking maybe this north island/south island thing I was trying to do wasn’t such a good idea. I’m glad I had bought my tickets prior to going to the museum! As I was finishing up the second floor exhibits, a chime rang four times (it was four o’clock), and then, on the central wall of the museum behind the stairs, a film started playing, something about being on a commercial shipping voyage in the 1930s. It was fun to watch it on the wall, and people from all levels of the museum hung over the railings on their level to pay attention. I sat on the stairs. The third floor was divided into sections talking about different aspects of early life in Wellington, including education, health, sanitation, homelessness, police and crime, etc. At the far end, again, seemed to be a screening room, but one rotation of the movie had already started, so I walked in and did a double take. There was no movie screen. Instead, there was a shelf with some objects on it: a candlestick, a book, a coil of rope, some old glass bottles. And on the shelf, walking around, talking, was a perfect 8 inch tall projection(?) of a woman. She was 3D and she was interacting with the objects. When she walked behind the glass bottles, her image was distorted. When she sat on the book, she cast a shadow! It was amazing. She talked of two Maori myths, and for one, two other perfect little people appeared and acted it out while she was reciting it! After the show, only about 15 minutes, I walked right up to the shelf and looked all around it and found no projector, no mirrors, no strings, no anything. I was the only person in the room when it started again, and I was standing maybe two feet from the little woman and still couldn’t figure out how it worked. I checked my museum pamphlet. There was no mention of this anywhere. It’s like the perfectly kept awesome museum secret. Bill Bryson has a description of something similar, I now recall, but I hadn’t thought it was for Wellington, since his book is about Australia, not NZ. I’ll need to check that section again. Having examined every corner of the museum (Te Papa might have gotten away, but the Museum of City and Sea has been thoroughly inspected by me!), I exited through the museum shop, buying a bunch of postcards and stamps on the way out.
I walked along the harbor, taking pictures. I came across an interesting fountain in which two little boys were playing. As I started to frame up the shot, their father started yelling something. I thought he was yelling at the kids to get out of the picture, so I turned to him and said, “They’re okay; I’m fine with it, if you don’t mind.” “Yeah, but, they’re about to take a wee!” he said. When I looked again, the boys had dropped their pants. I have no idea if their pants were down when I went to frame the shot. I assured the parents that I hadn’t actually taken a picture, and we all had a good laugh about that one. In the meantime, the mother had gone to scoop up the boys, and I took a picture afterward.
I walked to Courtenay Place, the “end of the line” for all the buses, but more or less the city center given that it’s all the way over on the left side of Wellington (don’t know if that’s east or west). I couldn’t find a place I wanted to eat dinner that wasn’t really expensive or Indian (there was an Indian restaurant every two steps), so I kept walking until I came to one corner where a pub-type place looked to have decent stuff. I got my table for one, first time on this trip, and chose a beer (Monteith’s – same brand Chris and I drunk by the six pack in Melbourne – but this time I tried their golden lager. The pub had five varieties of Monteith’s on tap.). For dinner, I had an unexpectedly delicious meal. The description was something like “wild mushrooms with an herb pancake, tomatoes, onions, white balsamic, and cheese”, so I was anticipating something hot, probably with spaghetti type sauce. Instead, I was brought a huge plate of cold, fresh mixed greens with tomatoes and onions which had been marinated in a light balsamic sauce. On top of that was a steaming, thick, golden, curved “pancake”, which was supposedly wrapped around the large pieces of several styles of mushrooms, many of which had escaped out onto the salad. It was very good, and I ate the entire thing, suddenly realizing I hadn’t had lunch. It was 6 PM. I drank my beer slowly, and wrote postcards for the next hour, waiting for the last bus to Eastbourne which was going to arrive at 8 PM. The pub wasn’t too busy, though, and the staff didn’t seem to mind if I just stayed. Still, I had another hour to kill, so I took a long slow walk up and down Courtenay place. I managed to get on the bus in the proper direction, but it was very indirect, and by the time we got close to Eastbourne, it was nearly 9 PM. The other thing that didn’t help was that I missed my stop, since I had been a little unsure of where it was anyway. The driver took pity on me when I realized we’d passed it, and let me out on the side of the road. I walked back.
At the B&B, I worked out arrangements with Mary for this morning. She was having her two granddaughters sleep over last night, so was a bit frazzled, but very happy. We decided I’d have breakfast at 8. Blueberry pancakes. We also talked about what to do with my luggage situation, and decided that we really couldn’t do anything in the decision-making arena until the morning when I found out from Air New Zealand more details. Like where exactly the bag was, and when they thought they might have it in Wellington. I was already planning to head into town in the morning to spend my soon-to-be-authorized NZ$100 from the whole fiasco. I also wanted to stop at a bank to see if I could change my Aussie dollars to kiwi dollars.
On my way to bed, I climbed in the hot tub again and read a few more chapters in Whale Rider, which I’d purchased in Brisbane on Chris’ suggestion. Then showered, forgot to wash out my underwear and socks so did that in the sink, and climbed into bed. The book called me, so I got up and finished reading it. Good book. Now I have to see the movie, but no problem since Barb let me … um… borrow it. Coughed myself to sleep.
Conference day 2
Friday, 26 November 2004 (written 30 November 2004)
I awoke with no voice. Absolutely none. This, however, made it easy for me to get out of the apartment, since no one wanted to have a conversation with me. I met up with Chris and we set out to catch a bus. Having looked at the conference schedule, knowing what had happened the day before and Chris’ never having been to Australia nor seen Brisbane, she really wanted to go into the city at some point to explore. We got an early start so we could get back to the conference for lunch and the afternoon program. Kakali was chairing an afternoon sequence as well as delivering her own paper on decolonizing methodologies (huh what? Yeah, that’s what I said too.) so we wanted to make sure to see those.
Chris told me that Supriya had approached her the night before and asked what Chris thought of how the panel had gone. Chris said that she told Supriya she was disappointed that the times hadn’t been kept and that Lyn had spoken for 15 minutes. Supriya said that Lyn only spoke for five minutes, and Chris wasn’t going to argue with her. But, as I said to Chris, if she (Chris) spoke 7 minutes, Kakali 5, me 2, Dan 2, that makes 16 minutes. Once Lyn had finished, Supriya stated that we had only 20 minutes for questions. Out of a 55 minute session. So where did the other nearly 20 minutes go? Right.
We managed to get a bus going the proper direction this time, and I had instructed Chris, via whispers, to buy two tickets that would enable us unlimited rides on the bus and the ferry once we hit the city. See, I know stuff like this because I’ve been to Brisbane before. Chris said I was the “local” so I was again in charge of not getting us lost. We took the bus all the way in to the Queen Street station, and surfaced in the middle of the city. Looking at street names, I suddenly remembered Brisbane’s naming convention – male streets all run parallel to each other and perpendicular to female streets. Names, we’re talking. So Albert St. and George St. are parallel and they intersect Elizabeth St. and Victoria St. which are parallel to each other. Not that this helps you find your way around the city, but it’s interesting to know! We found a little café to get some breakfast and coffee. I thought I was starving, but after the food arrived, I had a few bites and just wasn’t hungry. Was I still feeling the ill effects of Wednesday night? Yuck. (I now think it was my current ailment coming on, but I didn’t know it at that point.) After breakfast, we wandered toward the river, passing a bookstore where I bought the book that Whale Rider is based on. Chris had suggested I read the book before seeing the movie, and promised it was a fast read. We walked through the botanical gardens, and down to one of the wharfs where we waited AGES for a ferry. Finally the right one came, and we boarded, bound for Southbank. We walked Southbank for an hour and a half. Most of it was as I remembered, but there was a beach section and rainforest walk that I’d never seen before; whether it’s new or I missed it, I don’t know. We stopped to get a cold drink. It was hot, but it was more the humidity and the fact that the air just didn’t move that made it so sweltering. We came upon the stadium exhibiting sculptures. This time, the collection of sculptures wasn’t nearly as phallic as last time! And that was pretty much it. Walked, talked (my voice was starting to come back a little bit), took pictures, savored the time, and then headed back to find a bus. We asked at the restaurant next door to the place we’d been the night before, and the woman suggested we go the opposite direction Chris and I instinctively thought to go. So we ignored her, and went the way we thought we should go. We were wrong. But, had we actually followed the woman’s directions, we would have completely missed the bus station, too, since we would have walked along the river too far. Luckily, we found the station, and our platform, and there was a bus for us coming along in ten minutes. Perfect.
Got back to the campus just after the huge lunch line had dissipated. We grabbed food and sat down on a bench to eat it. Tom came over and sat with us, but then another guy sat on his other side and Tom talked to him instead of us. (Not that I could talk, but whatever.) Chris and I did quick checks of e-mail on the Ecocentre Macs, and then went to the afternoon session. There were four papers being presented, including Dan’s and Kakali’s, and both Tom and Lyn were in the audience. There was some concern Dan would chafe under Kakali’s chairing and rigid timekeeping, but he was pretty good about it. Neither of the first two papers were groundbreaking. One was presented by the girl who had been rather obnoxious at dinner the night before, who carried her patronizing tone through her presentation. The next paper was a plea to continue modeling on paper instead of wholly within NVivo. I’m not sure quite what the big deal was. If you want to use paper, use paper! Then Dan’s paper. Dan got off to a rambling start, but was not helped by the fact that the people next door to us were being incredibly loud, and then were fighting us for the lights. We were in a “split” room, and apparently the people in the other half wanted the lights on, whereas we wanted them off… I felt rather badly for Dan in the midst of noise and light wars and trying to present his paper which really wasn’t geared for those in the audience. He was talking about teaching qualitative methods using NVivo. However, it sparked some interesting conversation about several things, including whether or not students should first be taught paper and pen coding. People were protesting they just couldn’t look at a computer screen all the time. Others said you have to know the basis for what you’re doing before you do it on a computer. Still others argued that English majors aren’t made to write a work of literature using paper and quill pens before they learn to type, or are awarded their degrees. I said that I thought people were smart enough to discover other ways to code, so I didn’t see why paper and pen coding should be taught before computer coding. Maybe a student would find she could code with a highlighter and then bring it to her instructor to show what she had “discovered”. Everyone laughed. Then Chris said that “surely”, the point shouldn’t be what is right and what’s wrong, but to introduce students to various options. She was right, of course, but she was getting very into the point she was making. Realizing this, she ended with a plea of “Surely! Surely!!” (You have to imagine her accent here, too.) More laughter. (Afterward, Chris asked me if she’d come across as too emotional!) Kakali’s paper was good, and I even started to understand what “decolonizing methodologies” meant! There were also a few little jokes in her presentation that were just for Chris and my benefit. (Particularly about how Kakali always uses many long words!) She did her promised “interpretative dance”, and I video-ed it on my camera. I was going to just take a picture, but I didn’t want the flash to go off, and I wasn’t sure that it would work. So I just silently taped it. J
And that was it. The conference was over. I filled out an evaluation form anonymously, listing my complaints fairly (I hoped), and gave them credit where credit was due. Then Chris cornered Jenine about her paper and whether it was or wasn’t peer reviewed. I slunk away as Jenine backed herself into a corner. When she and Chris were done chatting, I asked Jenine what the deal with the Australasian Journal of Information Systems May issue was, fibbing a little by saying that my boss was writing an end of the year summary and needed to know whether we could say the article was “in press” or “submitted” or what. Jenine basically said that they have confirmed that they will have space for five papers to be published, and that the QualIT committee was going to sit down in the next week or so to figure out which five papers those would be. She seemed to indicate that I had a good likelihood of getting in because my reviews were so good, but I think she would have said that to anyone! In any case, I hope to know for real what’s going on by the end of the year.
Chris and I sat outside and waited for Kakali. We discussed some interesting but highly confidential stuff. Heh. It seemed to me like half the time when Chris opened her mouth it was to tell me a “this is confidential, but…” thing. It’s okay with me! I enjoy the behind the scenes peak and brainstorming opportunities. Suffice it to say, we’ll be staying in touch. When Kakali came out, we walked back to the hotel, and then called a cab to go to the pub we’d gone to with Dan on Tuesday night. I’d forgotten it was Friday night and the place was packed. We looked at menus for the other restaurants in the same location, but they were either not appealing or too expensive, so we ended up back at the pub. After we ordered (you order at this counter and then go find a seat), I thought Chris had gone to hunt for a table, but when she came back to the bar where we were ordering our beers, I realized she’d just gone to buy a pack of cigarettes. “Don’t look at me like that,” she said, “You make me feel guilty!” “Good,” I said, “Who’s going to make you feel guilty when you get home?” “I won’t be smoking when you see me in London,” she said. “I’ll believe it when I see it,” I retorted. Unfortunately, I was starting to feel really unwell. I hardly ate anything for dinner. My throat hurt very badly, and I was unable to project my partial voice over the din of the crowd. Chris and Kakali were excited and relieved to be going home the next day, and I knew the next day, I’d be shipping off to another country, not home. And alone. And I was feeling so miserable. Chris asked if I wanted to go home (meaning to the hotel), and I felt tears coming. I wanted to go HOME. But I didn’t want to go to the hotel because that would mean that our time together was ending. I stole Chris’ lighter again. When I came back from the bathroom, she had just borrowed the lighter of the guys at the table next to us. “I always find a way,” she said. “YOU,” I said, “have to keep better track of your possessions.” As I said this and held her eye, I reached out and swiped her pack from the table. She didn’t notice. We sat for a while longer, and then got a cab back to the hotel, where Kakali and I sat in Chris’ room for a little while, looking at all the pictures Chris, Tom, and I had taken over the past weeks. It was interesting to look at the pictures from Angahook, the first weekend, and re-evaluate them. At that point, I hadn’t know Chris at all, but there’s now something more to each picture since I know her and Dan better. Kakali was all about symbolism in one of them, explaining how we were close but far, moving but still, etc. Since I was the one with the laptop, I’d been periodically downloading Chris’ pictures and burning them to CD for her. That night, I also put on copies of my travelogue (such as it was), and the poem I had written on Tuesday night, an ode. Chris went to take a shower, so Kakali and I watched a bit of Ice Age on my computer. When Chris came out of the shower, we talked about meeting up in the morning – Kakali was sharing a cab with Dan; Chris and I were leaving a bit later. I went to the bathroom and realized I still had Chris’ cigarettes. I came out, wrote a note, and went back into the bathroom where I slipped the note into the pack, and placed the pack in the garbage. Then, we went back to our respective rooms for the night.
Epilogue (because I’ve already posted the 27th missive): The next morning, holding up her cigarettes, Chris said to me, “I found these in the bin again.” I grinned. “I saw you write the note,” she said, “But it didn’t occur to me to ask what you were doing.” She folded it, but unable to put it back into the pack, she put it in her purse. The note said something like, “Dear Chris – Even though I don’t like that you smoke, I respect your right to do so. I just worry about losing you earlier than I have to, when we’re old and grey. Love, Jen” What’s the statistic? Every cigarette you smoke decreases your life by seven minutes? What really gets me right now is that I have yet to meet a smoker who I really liked and respected as a person. Once I knew they were a smoker, I lost all respect for them. Yet, this time, with this person, all I do is feel sad.
I awoke with no voice. Absolutely none. This, however, made it easy for me to get out of the apartment, since no one wanted to have a conversation with me. I met up with Chris and we set out to catch a bus. Having looked at the conference schedule, knowing what had happened the day before and Chris’ never having been to Australia nor seen Brisbane, she really wanted to go into the city at some point to explore. We got an early start so we could get back to the conference for lunch and the afternoon program. Kakali was chairing an afternoon sequence as well as delivering her own paper on decolonizing methodologies (huh what? Yeah, that’s what I said too.) so we wanted to make sure to see those.
Chris told me that Supriya had approached her the night before and asked what Chris thought of how the panel had gone. Chris said that she told Supriya she was disappointed that the times hadn’t been kept and that Lyn had spoken for 15 minutes. Supriya said that Lyn only spoke for five minutes, and Chris wasn’t going to argue with her. But, as I said to Chris, if she (Chris) spoke 7 minutes, Kakali 5, me 2, Dan 2, that makes 16 minutes. Once Lyn had finished, Supriya stated that we had only 20 minutes for questions. Out of a 55 minute session. So where did the other nearly 20 minutes go? Right.
We managed to get a bus going the proper direction this time, and I had instructed Chris, via whispers, to buy two tickets that would enable us unlimited rides on the bus and the ferry once we hit the city. See, I know stuff like this because I’ve been to Brisbane before. Chris said I was the “local” so I was again in charge of not getting us lost. We took the bus all the way in to the Queen Street station, and surfaced in the middle of the city. Looking at street names, I suddenly remembered Brisbane’s naming convention – male streets all run parallel to each other and perpendicular to female streets. Names, we’re talking. So Albert St. and George St. are parallel and they intersect Elizabeth St. and Victoria St. which are parallel to each other. Not that this helps you find your way around the city, but it’s interesting to know! We found a little café to get some breakfast and coffee. I thought I was starving, but after the food arrived, I had a few bites and just wasn’t hungry. Was I still feeling the ill effects of Wednesday night? Yuck. (I now think it was my current ailment coming on, but I didn’t know it at that point.) After breakfast, we wandered toward the river, passing a bookstore where I bought the book that Whale Rider is based on. Chris had suggested I read the book before seeing the movie, and promised it was a fast read. We walked through the botanical gardens, and down to one of the wharfs where we waited AGES for a ferry. Finally the right one came, and we boarded, bound for Southbank. We walked Southbank for an hour and a half. Most of it was as I remembered, but there was a beach section and rainforest walk that I’d never seen before; whether it’s new or I missed it, I don’t know. We stopped to get a cold drink. It was hot, but it was more the humidity and the fact that the air just didn’t move that made it so sweltering. We came upon the stadium exhibiting sculptures. This time, the collection of sculptures wasn’t nearly as phallic as last time! And that was pretty much it. Walked, talked (my voice was starting to come back a little bit), took pictures, savored the time, and then headed back to find a bus. We asked at the restaurant next door to the place we’d been the night before, and the woman suggested we go the opposite direction Chris and I instinctively thought to go. So we ignored her, and went the way we thought we should go. We were wrong. But, had we actually followed the woman’s directions, we would have completely missed the bus station, too, since we would have walked along the river too far. Luckily, we found the station, and our platform, and there was a bus for us coming along in ten minutes. Perfect.
Got back to the campus just after the huge lunch line had dissipated. We grabbed food and sat down on a bench to eat it. Tom came over and sat with us, but then another guy sat on his other side and Tom talked to him instead of us. (Not that I could talk, but whatever.) Chris and I did quick checks of e-mail on the Ecocentre Macs, and then went to the afternoon session. There were four papers being presented, including Dan’s and Kakali’s, and both Tom and Lyn were in the audience. There was some concern Dan would chafe under Kakali’s chairing and rigid timekeeping, but he was pretty good about it. Neither of the first two papers were groundbreaking. One was presented by the girl who had been rather obnoxious at dinner the night before, who carried her patronizing tone through her presentation. The next paper was a plea to continue modeling on paper instead of wholly within NVivo. I’m not sure quite what the big deal was. If you want to use paper, use paper! Then Dan’s paper. Dan got off to a rambling start, but was not helped by the fact that the people next door to us were being incredibly loud, and then were fighting us for the lights. We were in a “split” room, and apparently the people in the other half wanted the lights on, whereas we wanted them off… I felt rather badly for Dan in the midst of noise and light wars and trying to present his paper which really wasn’t geared for those in the audience. He was talking about teaching qualitative methods using NVivo. However, it sparked some interesting conversation about several things, including whether or not students should first be taught paper and pen coding. People were protesting they just couldn’t look at a computer screen all the time. Others said you have to know the basis for what you’re doing before you do it on a computer. Still others argued that English majors aren’t made to write a work of literature using paper and quill pens before they learn to type, or are awarded their degrees. I said that I thought people were smart enough to discover other ways to code, so I didn’t see why paper and pen coding should be taught before computer coding. Maybe a student would find she could code with a highlighter and then bring it to her instructor to show what she had “discovered”. Everyone laughed. Then Chris said that “surely”, the point shouldn’t be what is right and what’s wrong, but to introduce students to various options. She was right, of course, but she was getting very into the point she was making. Realizing this, she ended with a plea of “Surely! Surely!!” (You have to imagine her accent here, too.) More laughter. (Afterward, Chris asked me if she’d come across as too emotional!) Kakali’s paper was good, and I even started to understand what “decolonizing methodologies” meant! There were also a few little jokes in her presentation that were just for Chris and my benefit. (Particularly about how Kakali always uses many long words!) She did her promised “interpretative dance”, and I video-ed it on my camera. I was going to just take a picture, but I didn’t want the flash to go off, and I wasn’t sure that it would work. So I just silently taped it. J
And that was it. The conference was over. I filled out an evaluation form anonymously, listing my complaints fairly (I hoped), and gave them credit where credit was due. Then Chris cornered Jenine about her paper and whether it was or wasn’t peer reviewed. I slunk away as Jenine backed herself into a corner. When she and Chris were done chatting, I asked Jenine what the deal with the Australasian Journal of Information Systems May issue was, fibbing a little by saying that my boss was writing an end of the year summary and needed to know whether we could say the article was “in press” or “submitted” or what. Jenine basically said that they have confirmed that they will have space for five papers to be published, and that the QualIT committee was going to sit down in the next week or so to figure out which five papers those would be. She seemed to indicate that I had a good likelihood of getting in because my reviews were so good, but I think she would have said that to anyone! In any case, I hope to know for real what’s going on by the end of the year.
Chris and I sat outside and waited for Kakali. We discussed some interesting but highly confidential stuff. Heh. It seemed to me like half the time when Chris opened her mouth it was to tell me a “this is confidential, but…” thing. It’s okay with me! I enjoy the behind the scenes peak and brainstorming opportunities. Suffice it to say, we’ll be staying in touch. When Kakali came out, we walked back to the hotel, and then called a cab to go to the pub we’d gone to with Dan on Tuesday night. I’d forgotten it was Friday night and the place was packed. We looked at menus for the other restaurants in the same location, but they were either not appealing or too expensive, so we ended up back at the pub. After we ordered (you order at this counter and then go find a seat), I thought Chris had gone to hunt for a table, but when she came back to the bar where we were ordering our beers, I realized she’d just gone to buy a pack of cigarettes. “Don’t look at me like that,” she said, “You make me feel guilty!” “Good,” I said, “Who’s going to make you feel guilty when you get home?” “I won’t be smoking when you see me in London,” she said. “I’ll believe it when I see it,” I retorted. Unfortunately, I was starting to feel really unwell. I hardly ate anything for dinner. My throat hurt very badly, and I was unable to project my partial voice over the din of the crowd. Chris and Kakali were excited and relieved to be going home the next day, and I knew the next day, I’d be shipping off to another country, not home. And alone. And I was feeling so miserable. Chris asked if I wanted to go home (meaning to the hotel), and I felt tears coming. I wanted to go HOME. But I didn’t want to go to the hotel because that would mean that our time together was ending. I stole Chris’ lighter again. When I came back from the bathroom, she had just borrowed the lighter of the guys at the table next to us. “I always find a way,” she said. “YOU,” I said, “have to keep better track of your possessions.” As I said this and held her eye, I reached out and swiped her pack from the table. She didn’t notice. We sat for a while longer, and then got a cab back to the hotel, where Kakali and I sat in Chris’ room for a little while, looking at all the pictures Chris, Tom, and I had taken over the past weeks. It was interesting to look at the pictures from Angahook, the first weekend, and re-evaluate them. At that point, I hadn’t know Chris at all, but there’s now something more to each picture since I know her and Dan better. Kakali was all about symbolism in one of them, explaining how we were close but far, moving but still, etc. Since I was the one with the laptop, I’d been periodically downloading Chris’ pictures and burning them to CD for her. That night, I also put on copies of my travelogue (such as it was), and the poem I had written on Tuesday night, an ode. Chris went to take a shower, so Kakali and I watched a bit of Ice Age on my computer. When Chris came out of the shower, we talked about meeting up in the morning – Kakali was sharing a cab with Dan; Chris and I were leaving a bit later. I went to the bathroom and realized I still had Chris’ cigarettes. I came out, wrote a note, and went back into the bathroom where I slipped the note into the pack, and placed the pack in the garbage. Then, we went back to our respective rooms for the night.
Epilogue (because I’ve already posted the 27th missive): The next morning, holding up her cigarettes, Chris said to me, “I found these in the bin again.” I grinned. “I saw you write the note,” she said, “But it didn’t occur to me to ask what you were doing.” She folded it, but unable to put it back into the pack, she put it in her purse. The note said something like, “Dear Chris – Even though I don’t like that you smoke, I respect your right to do so. I just worry about losing you earlier than I have to, when we’re old and grey. Love, Jen” What’s the statistic? Every cigarette you smoke decreases your life by seven minutes? What really gets me right now is that I have yet to meet a smoker who I really liked and respected as a person. Once I knew they were a smoker, I lost all respect for them. Yet, this time, with this person, all I do is feel sad.
One day bleeds into the next
Thursday, 25 November 2004 (written 26 November for the first paragraph, and 29 November for the rest)
When I got up for real around 6 AM, I took some Tylenol and tried to work on the slides for my presentation a bit. I woke Kakali per her request at 6:30, and went to Chris’ at 7 to wake her up, while I slowly and carefully chewed and swallowed a piece of dry toast, since I was still feeling ill, but knew I needed to eat something. I fiddled on my presentation more while she showered, and I suddenly realized that really I needed a print out of my notes pages, which I was unsure I’d be able to get. I had all the transitions worked out between slides on paper, but wasn’t sure I’d remember them in the presentation itself without looking. We headed up to campus on the shuttle I’d arranged at 7:50. Chris was very impressed I’d remember to do that the night before. I was definitely feeling the effects of not enough sleep and too much to drink. My head hurt and everything just felt muted, like I couldn’t quite wake up. Although we got to campus and the proper building early, they weren’t ready for me to set up and test my presentation. I asked Jenine if I could possibly print out something, and she, to my surprise, said yes, but in a few minutes. Hooray. I was going to have my notes pages. We stood around for a bit, looking out the windows. The Ecocentre, where we were, is in the middle of the bush. Much of the Griffith campus is bush. But the Ecocentre particularly, is very environmentally conscious, and rumor has it, the whole building could be disassembled, packed away, and no one would even know it had been there. The bathrooms were outside. No joke. You actually had to walk outside onto a deck to get to the bathrooms. I’d hate to have to go to the bathroom if it was raining.
Dan came up to Chris and me and asked how we were. A little fuzzy, I said. And worse, I was losing my voice. That’s because you were drinking last night, he said. Yeah, well, you were drinking too, I said to him. He nodded and made some remark about everybody feeling fuzzy today. Good, I said, I hope they stare out the windows during my presentation! It wasn’t that I was feeling nervous about it; I was just not feeling anything at all. And I know me better than that. To be a good presentation, I have to get at least a little jolt of adrenaline. I went and found Jenine again who said that I could do my printing thing while they finished the pre-set-up for my tech testing. I got my stuff printed at the info desk, and returned to the presentation room. They were having problems, and the keynote speaker was supposed to start in five minutes, so no testing beforehand.
Back in the hall, I ran into Tom. “You’re going to be happy with me today,” he said. “Oh?” I said. When am I not happy with Tom? “I had them switch the order of presentations so you can see the other video analysis one,” he said. There was only one other group presenting on video stuff, and we’d initially been scheduled for the exact same time slot. The format of the conference was to have three rooms running with presentations at all times. I had bitched about this in Melbourne, and Lyn’s response had been, “Well, conferences are hard to organize” while Tom had said that I had a really good point and yes it WAS stupid for them to have done it that way such that people would end up missing other potentially similar and certainly of interest presentations because of their own presentations. I don’t know who Tom bribed, but the people in the other room had agreed to swap the first two slots.
For the keynote, I sat in between Chris and Supriya. Chris was making notes for the panel discussion happening in the afternoon. I read the e-mail printout Supriya was holding. It was descriptions of each of us for her intro of the panel. Did you know that I’m a research fellow at Harvard? Yeah, me neither. I turned to Supriya and helped her make the appropriate corrections. TANGENT: This is one thing that has driven me nuts (just one thing, there are others!) about Lyn – she has somehow got it in her head that I’m from Harvard, so this is what she tells people. That’s fine. She’s confused. But nowhere in my paper or in any correspondence I ever sent Jenine did I say I was from Harvard. And yet, on my nametag, it said Harvard, and in the description Supriya had been sent by Jenine it said Harvard… And I would have liked for Jenine to pay attention to who and where I said I was from, not to listen to Lyn when all that information was explicitly asked for by the conference organizers, I had provided it correctly. I scribbled it out on my nametag. (By the way, Chris says that this annoyance is one thing she remembers me ranting about on Wednesday while we were drinking…) END TANGENT.
The keynote speaker was not fantastic. I left during the questions and answers to pace around in the hall, trying to wake up my soggy brain, and get myself excited about my presentation, which was first thing after the morning tea. I had a few half slices of tea bread and a cup of tea, trying to strengthen my blood sugar and my voice. While everyone else was having their morning tea, I spent half an hour helping the tech folks set up my laptop with my presentation. It was fraught with problems. First, the video looked like you were watching it through Venetian blinds. There were horizontal lines through it! But not on my screen, just when it got projected. Then, the audio was terrible. Although we got the video problem fixed, the audio was improved only slightly through multiple maneuvers. The real problem was their speaker. Next issue was, if I had the DVD program open on my computer, although I could switch to my Powerpoint slide show on my computer, it was the DVD that remained projected. I literally had to close the DVD program to get the projector to show my PP slides. And, we were already running ten minutes late. I was supposed to have half an hour – 20 minutes for the presentation, 10 minutes for Q&A. At some point in there, Chris, bless her, had come in and asked if I needed anything (I gave her my water bottle to fill up), and pulled me aside to ask if she should ask a question after the presentation. I told her she could if she felt like it. She asked if there was anything I wanted to be asked! I had to laugh. I hadn’t thought about setting it up like that, so no, there wasn’t anything I needed asked, but it was nice of her to offer. She sat down in the front, my moral support. Finally, I shook the tech guys off. We’d already spent 40 minutes playing with it, and I was holding up the entire group of presenters in that room for the day.
I greeted the audience (I was surprised by having about 30 people in my room), and apologized for the technical difficulties, joking about “audio, visual, and audio” [my voice] issues, and recalling my joke to Jenine that if the technical stuff didn’t work, next year, she’d be forced to host a QualI conference, instead of QualIT. Then launched into my presentation. I was trying to speed it along, and after the first two slides, completely gave up on the notes pages. Things went pretty well. I showed my first set of video clips with only a little stumbling around on the computer, but stopped them early because 1) the audio was still awful, and with kids speaking in American accents, I wasn’t sure how much was being understood by the audience anyway and 2) I was trying to make up time. What surprised me was how well the JS piece went over. The slides fell into place, my description made sense, I had the audience envision the scene while I read it, then, when I showed the video, you could tell they were amazed. They were definitely into me after that. So at least things ended with a bang! I had finished in 15 minutes, and immediately multiple hands shot up with questions. I had time to get to four of them, and spoke coherently and well to three of them. The fourth question, I dodged, and said something else entirely, but it turned out that that anecdote was what many people later remembered, since many people mentioned it to me after, and people who hadn’t seen the presentation had heard about that from their friends, so that was good too. (I forget the question exactly, but I responded by telling about JW having an asthma attack and taking the camera, and doctors being on the edge of their seats, etc.)
Then, I ran into the next room to see the other video analysis presentation. They were doing something where they needed access and analysis of three video streams at once!! There is more to it than that, but suffice to say, it’s different enough from what we’re doing that their system doesn’t help us. Ask me when I get back if you’d like more details. One noteworthy bit, though, was that they have defined “scenes”, “events”, and “tasks”. Tasks make up events, and there are multiple events in each scene. It’s almost identical to our tapes, scenes, and scenelets.
After that presentation, my brain was in need of a short break, so I sat on the stairs with Chris and we debriefed on my presentation (the first of several talks about it – it was still too close temporally for me to be objective about it at that point) and talked about the upcoming panel. We had some good brainstorms for that, and it helped crystallize exactly what I needed to say.
I went to another presentation on grounded theory which was fine, but very basic, and nothing I hadn’t heard before, except it has made me realize I need to at least skim Glaser and Strauss, Strauss and Corbin, and Glaser because I had no idea they didn’t all agree all the time! Big picture thought: One of the things I got out of the conference and these two weeks with Kakali and Chris, particularly, is that it’s okay that I don’t know big words like epistemology, and the details of the theoretical underpinnings of qualitative research. It’s okay that I don’t know grounded theory inside and out, but use Michael’s “Cumberland Gap” metaphor instead. What’s important is that I know what I’m doing in VIA, and that it makes sense to me in a way I can transmit to other people. And it’s fine that I’m very experienced in VIA and not in anything else. What I’m doing is important and worthwhile. What has been elucidated very clearly, unfortunately, is the gap between researchers and people who work in the “real world” with qualitative research as opposed to those with a more academic or theoretical mindset. This was talked about a lot over the past two weeks and I’m seeing things quite differently now. I had gone into all this (and this had been my mode of operation all along) thinking that I was a naïve, young kid at all this, and that I really couldn’t play with the big thinkers. What Chris helped me realize is that I don’t need to. Because I know what I’m doing. And that’s all I need.
Over lunch and in between things, several people came up to me and asked more questions about VIA or the analysis, or just generally said they really liked the presentation, so that was cool.
Then came the panel. I have resisted writing up the conference days because of the panel. Remember our agreed on format from the night before – Chris (7 minutes to present her paper as the basis for the discussion), Kakali (5 minutes because she’s got a lot of complex things to say), me (2 min), Dan (2 min), Lyn (2 min). We had 55 minutes. The rest was to be discussion with the audience. Supriya began by doing cursory introductions of everybody, and then handed the floor to me. I gave it to Chris. She did her thing, and Supriya indicated when her time was up. Kakali did her piece, and Supriya indicated when her time was up. I talked briefly on VIA and how using qual software didn’t change our field process or our aims, but did change our analysis as a process. Easily done in two minutes. Dan basically said his opinions were too complex to be expressed. Then Lyn. “You have less than five minutes,” said Supriya. And proceeded to let her talk for FIFTEEN MINUTES. I was already annoyed at Supriya for telling Lyn she had 5 minutes instead of her agreed upon 2 minutes. But when she didn’t cut her off or even indicate time to her, I was furious. I even indicated to Supriya that Lyn was running over, but was ignored. Then we had only twenty minutes for questions, so we could only take a couple, and Lyn answered most of them with what were, essentially, advertisements for QSR. Also, I am not sure she had read Chris’ paper at all. I didn’t say a thing the rest of the time, and it was good that I didn’t have much of a voice by that point because I would have said some uncouth things probably too loudly. I was quite upset. My exact fears, which I had spelled out to people in advance to make sure they didn’t happen, had come to pass. I felt that Supriya was in Lyn’s pocket, as her former graduate student and current friend, “light of my father’s life”, Lyn had said. And, I had stressed multiple times that I wanted for all of the panel to be equally involved in the discussion that would ensue from our short blurbs. Which of the panel was involved? Mainly Lyn. Some Dan. Very little Chris or Kakali. And no me. What was the point of my sitting there the whole hour? It was farcical to pull me up there to deliver my 120 seconds worth if it wasn’t going to be used, and wasn’t necessary for the rest of the panel.
Chris pulled me out of the building and I started ranting with my remaining squeaks of voice. Chris, Kakali, and I felt very much like we’d been put down in a big way. Along the lines of “well, now that the little ones have had their fun at playing qualitative research, the experienced adults will tell you all the right way to do it”. I was livid and embarrassed besides. It seemed so obvious that the three of us had prepared, tying our remarks to Chris’ paper, and being respectful of our time constraints. And then Lyn had just gone off, particularly after blowing off our planning meeting the night before and not being around for other discussions we’d had (some planned) about the panel. My rant was stopped short by the approach of a conference participant, who was asking directions back to the hotel, and telling us how much she appreciated the panel. “How did you think it went?” she asked Chris. Chris smiled through clenched teeth. I forget the exact discussion, but Kakali had arrived and then we started talking about going back to the hotel. For some reason, Amee had started to tell us about how she had lost her luggage years ago, and when she got it back, half her underwear was missing – and it was dirty underwear, “worn four times – inside, outside, backwards, and forwards”. (I’m sure I’ve already told this story somewhere in this journal, but this is where it happened chronologically.) We managed to pick up a ride with Alamein (one of the trainers we’d met the week before), and Kakali, Chris, and I went out to sit by the pool and vent about the day. The plan had been to take a nap before dinner that night, but venting seemed more important. I couldn’t help though, having no voice, so after several glasses of orange juice, I indicated that I really could use a nap before dinner. Kakali had to go do something too, and Chris wanted to shower. I didn’t feel like walking back to my room, though, and Chris’ had two beds, so I lay down in her room. Unfortunately, I just lay there, and never really slept. Chris was in and out a bit, and even lay down for a while, similarly not sleeping, and rather wound up. She checked out the CD that came with our conference program and found that her paper was on it, but specifically noted as “not peer-reviewed”, which completely angered her because Jenine had told her it was reviewed. (There’s a longer story here, too, obviously, but I’ll spare you unless you ask me in person.) So finally we just lay there shaking our heads.
At 6:30, Kakali met us at Chris’ room and we walked up to take a taxi to dinner. It was the conference dinner that night, at Southbank in Brisbane. As usual, we got a taxi driver who didn’t know where he was going. Then we wandered around on Southbank, lost for a bit, even on foot. Finally, we did make it to the restaurant, the River Canteen. They were doing drinks and hors d’oeuvres outside. I had water. On the rocks. The thought of alcohol, and particularly red wine, made me nauseated.
The guy whose question I dodged walked right up to me and introduced me to a woman who hadn’t been at the conference but who he had wanted me to talk to. Of course, my talking capability was slim. The woman does work with disabled individuals, trying to advocate for better industry response to them for when things don’t meet their needs. We talked (she talked, I whispered) for a while.
When dinner was called, I bee-lined for Chris. We still stood around for a bit, and when someone asked me a question, I turned to Chris, and she answered it, speaking for me. “Is she channeling you?!” the questioner asked. “We’ve spent a lot of time together,” said Chris. I smiled. I am so glad Chris really GOT me and GOT VIA and GOT my use of NVivo to the point where she could literally talk for me about it, and further, that she was happy to do so.
Right before we sat down at a table, I’d been introduced to the guy who’d done the other presentation about video analysis. He hadn’t seen my presentation, so Chris gave him the highlights. During dinner, I had the guy on my left, and Chris to my right. I held my own when whispering to the guy, but if I wanted to be involved in the table discussion, Chris had to help me out. It became very funny because sometimes I’d lean over to her and she’d respond to me without telling the table. This would pique the interest of others at the table who’d then want to know what I had said. No one else was listened to as attentively as I was that night. They all seemed to realize that if I was going to take the effort to get it out, it was probably worth hearing. Chris’ best performance came later in the evening when we were talking about ways to screw up your coding or useless ways to code. I had leaned over to her and said simply, “At first, I was coding objective as “objective” and subjective as “subjective” – gave that up quick!” She laughed and everyone demanded to know what I said. So she explained it – to people who didn’t know VIA or obj and subj. She even gave examples of each and talked about the difference when they are logged, and why that meant coding it wasn’t necessary. She gave the whole response, almost exactly as I would have. The girl’s in my head!
And speaking of performance – I have mixed feelings about the Aboriginal performers who came and danced and sang for us. Here we were – a group of predominantly white, certainly middle to upper class, educated people, and something about having this older Aboriginal guy and his maybe 10 year old grandson dancing and singing for us just seemed exploitative. People didn’t know when to clap, people in the back couldn’t hear what the guy was saying even when he was explaining in English (this was us – way in the back), and after the first ten minutes or so, people went back to having their own conversations and stuff. It was really odd and quite uncomfortable.
Dinner was a choice of several main courses. Nearly all of us chose the kangaroo because, come on! Kangaroo! But now I’ve had kangaroo. It was alright. Dinner conversation was lively the whole time, although one young woman across from me was particularly annoying and frequently presented an academic supremacy viewpoint to which the actual researching people took some offense. Reaching her limit with this girl, Chris excused herself several times for a cigarette or trip to the loo. If it was the former, I tended to be inclined to join her, even if to just stretch my legs and be outside for two minutes. Dinner was a very long event, with probably 45 minutes between dinner and dessert. Dessert was also average – a choice, again, between pavlova, apple-fig tart, and a white chocolate-macadamia nut thing. I had the apple-fig tart.
Didn’t win any of the door prizes, although the guy next to me did. Just after stating loudly that he didn’t want an NVivo book, that’s what he won. We were all amused.
After dessert, a group of us realized we were all going to the same place, so we had the restaurant call a “maxi taxi” which can sit 11 people. We walked up to meet it. The group ahead of us, of all the dignitaries, Lyn, Tom, etc., had also ordered one, and it arrived just as we got to the pick up. So off they went – they actually had 11 people. We met up with three more people and made 9. We sent away several single taxis and finally the Maxi Taxi arrived and we piled in. Slightly tipsy conversation continued and there was much laughing about the difference between partners, lovers, and spouses. We had a good time. One thing I really like about Australia is that people automatically talk about their “partner” instead of immediately saying “my wife” or “my boyfriend”. I like the openness that indicates.
Even though I hadn’t really felt like going to dinner and being social with a whole crowd of people, I was really glad I had gone. But already, thoughts of how this was all coming to an end were creeping into my head…
When I got up for real around 6 AM, I took some Tylenol and tried to work on the slides for my presentation a bit. I woke Kakali per her request at 6:30, and went to Chris’ at 7 to wake her up, while I slowly and carefully chewed and swallowed a piece of dry toast, since I was still feeling ill, but knew I needed to eat something. I fiddled on my presentation more while she showered, and I suddenly realized that really I needed a print out of my notes pages, which I was unsure I’d be able to get. I had all the transitions worked out between slides on paper, but wasn’t sure I’d remember them in the presentation itself without looking. We headed up to campus on the shuttle I’d arranged at 7:50. Chris was very impressed I’d remember to do that the night before. I was definitely feeling the effects of not enough sleep and too much to drink. My head hurt and everything just felt muted, like I couldn’t quite wake up. Although we got to campus and the proper building early, they weren’t ready for me to set up and test my presentation. I asked Jenine if I could possibly print out something, and she, to my surprise, said yes, but in a few minutes. Hooray. I was going to have my notes pages. We stood around for a bit, looking out the windows. The Ecocentre, where we were, is in the middle of the bush. Much of the Griffith campus is bush. But the Ecocentre particularly, is very environmentally conscious, and rumor has it, the whole building could be disassembled, packed away, and no one would even know it had been there. The bathrooms were outside. No joke. You actually had to walk outside onto a deck to get to the bathrooms. I’d hate to have to go to the bathroom if it was raining.
Dan came up to Chris and me and asked how we were. A little fuzzy, I said. And worse, I was losing my voice. That’s because you were drinking last night, he said. Yeah, well, you were drinking too, I said to him. He nodded and made some remark about everybody feeling fuzzy today. Good, I said, I hope they stare out the windows during my presentation! It wasn’t that I was feeling nervous about it; I was just not feeling anything at all. And I know me better than that. To be a good presentation, I have to get at least a little jolt of adrenaline. I went and found Jenine again who said that I could do my printing thing while they finished the pre-set-up for my tech testing. I got my stuff printed at the info desk, and returned to the presentation room. They were having problems, and the keynote speaker was supposed to start in five minutes, so no testing beforehand.
Back in the hall, I ran into Tom. “You’re going to be happy with me today,” he said. “Oh?” I said. When am I not happy with Tom? “I had them switch the order of presentations so you can see the other video analysis one,” he said. There was only one other group presenting on video stuff, and we’d initially been scheduled for the exact same time slot. The format of the conference was to have three rooms running with presentations at all times. I had bitched about this in Melbourne, and Lyn’s response had been, “Well, conferences are hard to organize” while Tom had said that I had a really good point and yes it WAS stupid for them to have done it that way such that people would end up missing other potentially similar and certainly of interest presentations because of their own presentations. I don’t know who Tom bribed, but the people in the other room had agreed to swap the first two slots.
For the keynote, I sat in between Chris and Supriya. Chris was making notes for the panel discussion happening in the afternoon. I read the e-mail printout Supriya was holding. It was descriptions of each of us for her intro of the panel. Did you know that I’m a research fellow at Harvard? Yeah, me neither. I turned to Supriya and helped her make the appropriate corrections. TANGENT: This is one thing that has driven me nuts (just one thing, there are others!) about Lyn – she has somehow got it in her head that I’m from Harvard, so this is what she tells people. That’s fine. She’s confused. But nowhere in my paper or in any correspondence I ever sent Jenine did I say I was from Harvard. And yet, on my nametag, it said Harvard, and in the description Supriya had been sent by Jenine it said Harvard… And I would have liked for Jenine to pay attention to who and where I said I was from, not to listen to Lyn when all that information was explicitly asked for by the conference organizers, I had provided it correctly. I scribbled it out on my nametag. (By the way, Chris says that this annoyance is one thing she remembers me ranting about on Wednesday while we were drinking…) END TANGENT.
The keynote speaker was not fantastic. I left during the questions and answers to pace around in the hall, trying to wake up my soggy brain, and get myself excited about my presentation, which was first thing after the morning tea. I had a few half slices of tea bread and a cup of tea, trying to strengthen my blood sugar and my voice. While everyone else was having their morning tea, I spent half an hour helping the tech folks set up my laptop with my presentation. It was fraught with problems. First, the video looked like you were watching it through Venetian blinds. There were horizontal lines through it! But not on my screen, just when it got projected. Then, the audio was terrible. Although we got the video problem fixed, the audio was improved only slightly through multiple maneuvers. The real problem was their speaker. Next issue was, if I had the DVD program open on my computer, although I could switch to my Powerpoint slide show on my computer, it was the DVD that remained projected. I literally had to close the DVD program to get the projector to show my PP slides. And, we were already running ten minutes late. I was supposed to have half an hour – 20 minutes for the presentation, 10 minutes for Q&A. At some point in there, Chris, bless her, had come in and asked if I needed anything (I gave her my water bottle to fill up), and pulled me aside to ask if she should ask a question after the presentation. I told her she could if she felt like it. She asked if there was anything I wanted to be asked! I had to laugh. I hadn’t thought about setting it up like that, so no, there wasn’t anything I needed asked, but it was nice of her to offer. She sat down in the front, my moral support. Finally, I shook the tech guys off. We’d already spent 40 minutes playing with it, and I was holding up the entire group of presenters in that room for the day.
I greeted the audience (I was surprised by having about 30 people in my room), and apologized for the technical difficulties, joking about “audio, visual, and audio” [my voice] issues, and recalling my joke to Jenine that if the technical stuff didn’t work, next year, she’d be forced to host a QualI conference, instead of QualIT. Then launched into my presentation. I was trying to speed it along, and after the first two slides, completely gave up on the notes pages. Things went pretty well. I showed my first set of video clips with only a little stumbling around on the computer, but stopped them early because 1) the audio was still awful, and with kids speaking in American accents, I wasn’t sure how much was being understood by the audience anyway and 2) I was trying to make up time. What surprised me was how well the JS piece went over. The slides fell into place, my description made sense, I had the audience envision the scene while I read it, then, when I showed the video, you could tell they were amazed. They were definitely into me after that. So at least things ended with a bang! I had finished in 15 minutes, and immediately multiple hands shot up with questions. I had time to get to four of them, and spoke coherently and well to three of them. The fourth question, I dodged, and said something else entirely, but it turned out that that anecdote was what many people later remembered, since many people mentioned it to me after, and people who hadn’t seen the presentation had heard about that from their friends, so that was good too. (I forget the question exactly, but I responded by telling about JW having an asthma attack and taking the camera, and doctors being on the edge of their seats, etc.)
Then, I ran into the next room to see the other video analysis presentation. They were doing something where they needed access and analysis of three video streams at once!! There is more to it than that, but suffice to say, it’s different enough from what we’re doing that their system doesn’t help us. Ask me when I get back if you’d like more details. One noteworthy bit, though, was that they have defined “scenes”, “events”, and “tasks”. Tasks make up events, and there are multiple events in each scene. It’s almost identical to our tapes, scenes, and scenelets.
After that presentation, my brain was in need of a short break, so I sat on the stairs with Chris and we debriefed on my presentation (the first of several talks about it – it was still too close temporally for me to be objective about it at that point) and talked about the upcoming panel. We had some good brainstorms for that, and it helped crystallize exactly what I needed to say.
I went to another presentation on grounded theory which was fine, but very basic, and nothing I hadn’t heard before, except it has made me realize I need to at least skim Glaser and Strauss, Strauss and Corbin, and Glaser because I had no idea they didn’t all agree all the time! Big picture thought: One of the things I got out of the conference and these two weeks with Kakali and Chris, particularly, is that it’s okay that I don’t know big words like epistemology, and the details of the theoretical underpinnings of qualitative research. It’s okay that I don’t know grounded theory inside and out, but use Michael’s “Cumberland Gap” metaphor instead. What’s important is that I know what I’m doing in VIA, and that it makes sense to me in a way I can transmit to other people. And it’s fine that I’m very experienced in VIA and not in anything else. What I’m doing is important and worthwhile. What has been elucidated very clearly, unfortunately, is the gap between researchers and people who work in the “real world” with qualitative research as opposed to those with a more academic or theoretical mindset. This was talked about a lot over the past two weeks and I’m seeing things quite differently now. I had gone into all this (and this had been my mode of operation all along) thinking that I was a naïve, young kid at all this, and that I really couldn’t play with the big thinkers. What Chris helped me realize is that I don’t need to. Because I know what I’m doing. And that’s all I need.
Over lunch and in between things, several people came up to me and asked more questions about VIA or the analysis, or just generally said they really liked the presentation, so that was cool.
Then came the panel. I have resisted writing up the conference days because of the panel. Remember our agreed on format from the night before – Chris (7 minutes to present her paper as the basis for the discussion), Kakali (5 minutes because she’s got a lot of complex things to say), me (2 min), Dan (2 min), Lyn (2 min). We had 55 minutes. The rest was to be discussion with the audience. Supriya began by doing cursory introductions of everybody, and then handed the floor to me. I gave it to Chris. She did her thing, and Supriya indicated when her time was up. Kakali did her piece, and Supriya indicated when her time was up. I talked briefly on VIA and how using qual software didn’t change our field process or our aims, but did change our analysis as a process. Easily done in two minutes. Dan basically said his opinions were too complex to be expressed. Then Lyn. “You have less than five minutes,” said Supriya. And proceeded to let her talk for FIFTEEN MINUTES. I was already annoyed at Supriya for telling Lyn she had 5 minutes instead of her agreed upon 2 minutes. But when she didn’t cut her off or even indicate time to her, I was furious. I even indicated to Supriya that Lyn was running over, but was ignored. Then we had only twenty minutes for questions, so we could only take a couple, and Lyn answered most of them with what were, essentially, advertisements for QSR. Also, I am not sure she had read Chris’ paper at all. I didn’t say a thing the rest of the time, and it was good that I didn’t have much of a voice by that point because I would have said some uncouth things probably too loudly. I was quite upset. My exact fears, which I had spelled out to people in advance to make sure they didn’t happen, had come to pass. I felt that Supriya was in Lyn’s pocket, as her former graduate student and current friend, “light of my father’s life”, Lyn had said. And, I had stressed multiple times that I wanted for all of the panel to be equally involved in the discussion that would ensue from our short blurbs. Which of the panel was involved? Mainly Lyn. Some Dan. Very little Chris or Kakali. And no me. What was the point of my sitting there the whole hour? It was farcical to pull me up there to deliver my 120 seconds worth if it wasn’t going to be used, and wasn’t necessary for the rest of the panel.
Chris pulled me out of the building and I started ranting with my remaining squeaks of voice. Chris, Kakali, and I felt very much like we’d been put down in a big way. Along the lines of “well, now that the little ones have had their fun at playing qualitative research, the experienced adults will tell you all the right way to do it”. I was livid and embarrassed besides. It seemed so obvious that the three of us had prepared, tying our remarks to Chris’ paper, and being respectful of our time constraints. And then Lyn had just gone off, particularly after blowing off our planning meeting the night before and not being around for other discussions we’d had (some planned) about the panel. My rant was stopped short by the approach of a conference participant, who was asking directions back to the hotel, and telling us how much she appreciated the panel. “How did you think it went?” she asked Chris. Chris smiled through clenched teeth. I forget the exact discussion, but Kakali had arrived and then we started talking about going back to the hotel. For some reason, Amee had started to tell us about how she had lost her luggage years ago, and when she got it back, half her underwear was missing – and it was dirty underwear, “worn four times – inside, outside, backwards, and forwards”. (I’m sure I’ve already told this story somewhere in this journal, but this is where it happened chronologically.) We managed to pick up a ride with Alamein (one of the trainers we’d met the week before), and Kakali, Chris, and I went out to sit by the pool and vent about the day. The plan had been to take a nap before dinner that night, but venting seemed more important. I couldn’t help though, having no voice, so after several glasses of orange juice, I indicated that I really could use a nap before dinner. Kakali had to go do something too, and Chris wanted to shower. I didn’t feel like walking back to my room, though, and Chris’ had two beds, so I lay down in her room. Unfortunately, I just lay there, and never really slept. Chris was in and out a bit, and even lay down for a while, similarly not sleeping, and rather wound up. She checked out the CD that came with our conference program and found that her paper was on it, but specifically noted as “not peer-reviewed”, which completely angered her because Jenine had told her it was reviewed. (There’s a longer story here, too, obviously, but I’ll spare you unless you ask me in person.) So finally we just lay there shaking our heads.
At 6:30, Kakali met us at Chris’ room and we walked up to take a taxi to dinner. It was the conference dinner that night, at Southbank in Brisbane. As usual, we got a taxi driver who didn’t know where he was going. Then we wandered around on Southbank, lost for a bit, even on foot. Finally, we did make it to the restaurant, the River Canteen. They were doing drinks and hors d’oeuvres outside. I had water. On the rocks. The thought of alcohol, and particularly red wine, made me nauseated.
The guy whose question I dodged walked right up to me and introduced me to a woman who hadn’t been at the conference but who he had wanted me to talk to. Of course, my talking capability was slim. The woman does work with disabled individuals, trying to advocate for better industry response to them for when things don’t meet their needs. We talked (she talked, I whispered) for a while.
When dinner was called, I bee-lined for Chris. We still stood around for a bit, and when someone asked me a question, I turned to Chris, and she answered it, speaking for me. “Is she channeling you?!” the questioner asked. “We’ve spent a lot of time together,” said Chris. I smiled. I am so glad Chris really GOT me and GOT VIA and GOT my use of NVivo to the point where she could literally talk for me about it, and further, that she was happy to do so.
Right before we sat down at a table, I’d been introduced to the guy who’d done the other presentation about video analysis. He hadn’t seen my presentation, so Chris gave him the highlights. During dinner, I had the guy on my left, and Chris to my right. I held my own when whispering to the guy, but if I wanted to be involved in the table discussion, Chris had to help me out. It became very funny because sometimes I’d lean over to her and she’d respond to me without telling the table. This would pique the interest of others at the table who’d then want to know what I had said. No one else was listened to as attentively as I was that night. They all seemed to realize that if I was going to take the effort to get it out, it was probably worth hearing. Chris’ best performance came later in the evening when we were talking about ways to screw up your coding or useless ways to code. I had leaned over to her and said simply, “At first, I was coding objective as “objective” and subjective as “subjective” – gave that up quick!” She laughed and everyone demanded to know what I said. So she explained it – to people who didn’t know VIA or obj and subj. She even gave examples of each and talked about the difference when they are logged, and why that meant coding it wasn’t necessary. She gave the whole response, almost exactly as I would have. The girl’s in my head!
And speaking of performance – I have mixed feelings about the Aboriginal performers who came and danced and sang for us. Here we were – a group of predominantly white, certainly middle to upper class, educated people, and something about having this older Aboriginal guy and his maybe 10 year old grandson dancing and singing for us just seemed exploitative. People didn’t know when to clap, people in the back couldn’t hear what the guy was saying even when he was explaining in English (this was us – way in the back), and after the first ten minutes or so, people went back to having their own conversations and stuff. It was really odd and quite uncomfortable.
Dinner was a choice of several main courses. Nearly all of us chose the kangaroo because, come on! Kangaroo! But now I’ve had kangaroo. It was alright. Dinner conversation was lively the whole time, although one young woman across from me was particularly annoying and frequently presented an academic supremacy viewpoint to which the actual researching people took some offense. Reaching her limit with this girl, Chris excused herself several times for a cigarette or trip to the loo. If it was the former, I tended to be inclined to join her, even if to just stretch my legs and be outside for two minutes. Dinner was a very long event, with probably 45 minutes between dinner and dessert. Dessert was also average – a choice, again, between pavlova, apple-fig tart, and a white chocolate-macadamia nut thing. I had the apple-fig tart.
Didn’t win any of the door prizes, although the guy next to me did. Just after stating loudly that he didn’t want an NVivo book, that’s what he won. We were all amused.
After dessert, a group of us realized we were all going to the same place, so we had the restaurant call a “maxi taxi” which can sit 11 people. We walked up to meet it. The group ahead of us, of all the dignitaries, Lyn, Tom, etc., had also ordered one, and it arrived just as we got to the pick up. So off they went – they actually had 11 people. We met up with three more people and made 9. We sent away several single taxis and finally the Maxi Taxi arrived and we piled in. Slightly tipsy conversation continued and there was much laughing about the difference between partners, lovers, and spouses. We had a good time. One thing I really like about Australia is that people automatically talk about their “partner” instead of immediately saying “my wife” or “my boyfriend”. I like the openness that indicates.
Even though I hadn’t really felt like going to dinner and being social with a whole crowd of people, I was really glad I had gone. But already, thoughts of how this was all coming to an end were creeping into my head…
Surprise post!
Agh. I hate it when this happens. I had all this great stuff to tell you, and then I sat down at a computer and it all flew out of my head. I really would love to write a book someday - in a Bill Bryson, conversational, stream of consciousness way - maybe with these posts and my website from my trip two years ago, but I worry I'll sit down to do it and won't have a thing to say!
Anyway - I've completely caught up in narrations, but they won't get posted until tonight in Wellington, so be prepared for a bunch next time you check here. I slept a full 11 hours last night, exhausted. This morning, I had breakfast, chatted with Amy for a bit (innkeeper's daughter). Amy is interested in medicine in general and herbal medicine in particular, and I showed her the VIA website, which she thought was fabulous. I'm sorry we didn't have a chance to talk longer. While we talked, I played on the floor with Frank, their short-haired, short-legged, Jack Russell terrier. He's got a cute Jack Russell face, but this little stumpy body. Still, a dog's a dog, and we had a good tussel. Amy and Frank ended up driving me into Nelson around 10:30, and I dropped my larger luggage off at this backpacker's place where I'm now e-mailing you from.
I walked a large loop around Nelson in the rain, having done all my shopping and spectating on Tuesday. I went to the grocery store to buy a bottle of water and some aloe for my sunburn. I burned very strange places on myself - the backs of my hands, the FRONT of my neck (like under my chin), and the inside of my elbows. My elbows and just below the sleeves of my tee shirt are what bother me the most, so I've taken to wandering around with my arms outstretched, pretending I walk like that all the time, and trying not to rub my shirt on my arms, nor bend my elbows. Unfortunately, one bends ones elbows all the time! To read, to drink coffee, to pick things up... I discovered, to my annoyance, that I burned some of my back where my backpack rests when I slung it over my shoulder and found it hurt tremendously! After making my purchases, I headed to a coffee shop I'd been eyeing, ordered a cafe mocha, and sat down at a window table to while away some hours. As soon as the barista brought my coffee, I rolled up my sleeves and started slathering my arms with aloe. I was trying to be subtle (who in their right mind pulls up in a coffeeshop and starts applying aloe all over their arms), but I guess I wasn't because I kept getting very strange looks from the employees, and as I sat there, sleeves rolled up to keep them from bothering me and to let the aloe dry, I did catch them twittering to themselves and taking glances at me. I match my red shirt, unfortunately. I sat in the coffeeshop for several hours, reading and laughing outloud (more weird looks) at Bill Bryson's descriptions of Australia. I've read this book before, of course, but it is all the more real to me now that I've just been to some of these places he describes.
In the meantime, I've just found out (over e-mail) that we actually got one of the grants we applied for! GO US!! So VIA will survive a while longer yet! (I'm just kidding; I'm not overly worried, but I am interested in preserving our funding streams!) Additionally, maybe it's just coincidental timing, but I've had two QSR training requests in the last two days. One was for MIT, an intro NVivo thing, easy, if they decide they really do want me to do it. That would be Feb/March if it happens. The second was for a more personalized N6 consult. Hearing Chris' voice in my head, I'm considering doing it. I had told her that NVivo I'm all good with, but I didn't think I'd ever train people in N6. She said that was dumb, that I'm fine with N6, and that I should just go do it. So that's given me some courage, and this particular inquiry working one on one with a guy who's trying to analyze his interviews and doesn't know N6 so wants help with the set-up and launch of the project might be the perfect opportunity to get my feet wet in it. But we'll see. In all likelihood, both of these will fall through, as is the way with 99.9% of the people who contact me. But it's strange that both would come within weeks of my doing the QSR train-the-trainer thing. You guys at VIA - I have SOOOOOOOOO much to tell you.
Illness update - I'm feeling much less "crook" (that would be "sick") each day. I'm not nearly so congested, even though my nose is a bit runny, and I'm not having coughing fits anymore. Can almost breathe deeply without being compelled to cough, and am not coughing nearly so frequently as before. I hope I'll be completely healed by the time I board my Auckland -> LA flight tomorrow.
And I am so glad to be coming home soon. I've reached saturation with new places and new things and exploring. I think I reached my limit when I left Brisbane last week. Everything now has taken on a sort of surreal quality to it (although maybe that's the Sudafed), and I have to keep reminding myself, "This is New Zealand. THIS is New Zealand." I have been trying hard to not count down to when I leave, to enjoy each day. But I am "full up" and ready to go home.
The rest of the day is as follows - in half an hour, I board a bus back to Picton. I'll get there at 5:15 PM. My ferry leaves Picton at 6 PM. I'll be in Wellington at 9 PM. Mary will pick me up (at least, that's the plan), I'll post my narratives, hot tub, shower, bed. Tomorrow will be a leisurely morning with lots of planes all night... And then I'll be home.
Portia - It makes more sense if you read these posts last to first instead of first to last because of the reverse chronological posting!
Robin - I can't bring you home any potent Australian wine; I'm in New Zealand now, and if you mention anything about Australia, you're likely to get shot! They have quite a rivalry.
Everyone - Keep checking your snail mail. I sent a bazillion postcards on this trip, generally more than one to each person even, so keep a look out. Dunno if my NZ ones will reach the states before I do, but all the Australian ones should.
Anyway - I've completely caught up in narrations, but they won't get posted until tonight in Wellington, so be prepared for a bunch next time you check here. I slept a full 11 hours last night, exhausted. This morning, I had breakfast, chatted with Amy for a bit (innkeeper's daughter). Amy is interested in medicine in general and herbal medicine in particular, and I showed her the VIA website, which she thought was fabulous. I'm sorry we didn't have a chance to talk longer. While we talked, I played on the floor with Frank, their short-haired, short-legged, Jack Russell terrier. He's got a cute Jack Russell face, but this little stumpy body. Still, a dog's a dog, and we had a good tussel. Amy and Frank ended up driving me into Nelson around 10:30, and I dropped my larger luggage off at this backpacker's place where I'm now e-mailing you from.
I walked a large loop around Nelson in the rain, having done all my shopping and spectating on Tuesday. I went to the grocery store to buy a bottle of water and some aloe for my sunburn. I burned very strange places on myself - the backs of my hands, the FRONT of my neck (like under my chin), and the inside of my elbows. My elbows and just below the sleeves of my tee shirt are what bother me the most, so I've taken to wandering around with my arms outstretched, pretending I walk like that all the time, and trying not to rub my shirt on my arms, nor bend my elbows. Unfortunately, one bends ones elbows all the time! To read, to drink coffee, to pick things up... I discovered, to my annoyance, that I burned some of my back where my backpack rests when I slung it over my shoulder and found it hurt tremendously! After making my purchases, I headed to a coffee shop I'd been eyeing, ordered a cafe mocha, and sat down at a window table to while away some hours. As soon as the barista brought my coffee, I rolled up my sleeves and started slathering my arms with aloe. I was trying to be subtle (who in their right mind pulls up in a coffeeshop and starts applying aloe all over their arms), but I guess I wasn't because I kept getting very strange looks from the employees, and as I sat there, sleeves rolled up to keep them from bothering me and to let the aloe dry, I did catch them twittering to themselves and taking glances at me. I match my red shirt, unfortunately. I sat in the coffeeshop for several hours, reading and laughing outloud (more weird looks) at Bill Bryson's descriptions of Australia. I've read this book before, of course, but it is all the more real to me now that I've just been to some of these places he describes.
In the meantime, I've just found out (over e-mail) that we actually got one of the grants we applied for! GO US!! So VIA will survive a while longer yet! (I'm just kidding; I'm not overly worried, but I am interested in preserving our funding streams!) Additionally, maybe it's just coincidental timing, but I've had two QSR training requests in the last two days. One was for MIT, an intro NVivo thing, easy, if they decide they really do want me to do it. That would be Feb/March if it happens. The second was for a more personalized N6 consult. Hearing Chris' voice in my head, I'm considering doing it. I had told her that NVivo I'm all good with, but I didn't think I'd ever train people in N6. She said that was dumb, that I'm fine with N6, and that I should just go do it. So that's given me some courage, and this particular inquiry working one on one with a guy who's trying to analyze his interviews and doesn't know N6 so wants help with the set-up and launch of the project might be the perfect opportunity to get my feet wet in it. But we'll see. In all likelihood, both of these will fall through, as is the way with 99.9% of the people who contact me. But it's strange that both would come within weeks of my doing the QSR train-the-trainer thing. You guys at VIA - I have SOOOOOOOOO much to tell you.
Illness update - I'm feeling much less "crook" (that would be "sick") each day. I'm not nearly so congested, even though my nose is a bit runny, and I'm not having coughing fits anymore. Can almost breathe deeply without being compelled to cough, and am not coughing nearly so frequently as before. I hope I'll be completely healed by the time I board my Auckland -> LA flight tomorrow.
And I am so glad to be coming home soon. I've reached saturation with new places and new things and exploring. I think I reached my limit when I left Brisbane last week. Everything now has taken on a sort of surreal quality to it (although maybe that's the Sudafed), and I have to keep reminding myself, "This is New Zealand. THIS is New Zealand." I have been trying hard to not count down to when I leave, to enjoy each day. But I am "full up" and ready to go home.
The rest of the day is as follows - in half an hour, I board a bus back to Picton. I'll get there at 5:15 PM. My ferry leaves Picton at 6 PM. I'll be in Wellington at 9 PM. Mary will pick me up (at least, that's the plan), I'll post my narratives, hot tub, shower, bed. Tomorrow will be a leisurely morning with lots of planes all night... And then I'll be home.
Portia - It makes more sense if you read these posts last to first instead of first to last because of the reverse chronological posting!
Robin - I can't bring you home any potent Australian wine; I'm in New Zealand now, and if you mention anything about Australia, you're likely to get shot! They have quite a rivalry.
Everyone - Keep checking your snail mail. I sent a bazillion postcards on this trip, generally more than one to each person even, so keep a look out. Dunno if my NZ ones will reach the states before I do, but all the Australian ones should.